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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
What More Do I Need To Know About The G49 and Its Adjustment
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 161212" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Regulars here will not be surprised that my view is different to common Vincent religion:</p><p></p><p>I believe it is bad practise to set gear change linkage at the G 49 stop as a small amount of adjustment means big position change at the G 66 actuating arm end engaging in the G 59 AS change speed pawl - which drives the G 43 ratchet and its gear change shaft and bevel gear inside the box. Instead I made an alu stop next to the change speed pawl, see my photos below, the alu block with allen bolt and two dowels. The position shown is like shifting up to first gear and the pawl touching the stop.</p><p></p><p>When shifting down to second gear it will stop at the opposite alu face next to the other dowel. So stops are one face next to one dowel, the other stop near the other dowel. Good thing is I don´t mess with the stops for the actuating arm, not used here and not great as the stops there are effectively the ends of the centralising leaf spring getting squeezed onto the curved alu faces of the G 49 lever stop - not perfect in this job.</p><p></p><p>You could do my idea of alu stops on the bike with a hand drill and dremel the faces for fine adjustment, for reaching positions of camplate just near enough for slipping into camplate notches. Be sure to have allen bolt and dowels way out close to the cover as not a lot of space there for filing the stop faces to achieve the perfect stops.</p><p></p><p>For keeping the lever stop in position I made massive plates under the torx bolts and a simple eccentric bush, no hex on it. I set the linkage stop by looks as required , bolt up one torx and place the plain eccentric plus a split washer for a bit of preload over the second M 6 thread hole and tighten the other torx bolt and its massive plate onto the lever stop. Should do I believe…</p><p></p><p>Certainly very first thing is the camplate settings in the gearbox have to be exactly as required. I did corrections on notches and curved slots in camplate for maximum engagement in all gears. So when setting the linkages you take care by feeling the clicks in the gearbox to set linkage stops like with my doweled alu blocks. After this job I cannot imagine how gearchanges can be faulty.</p><p></p><p>Vic</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]52513[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]52514[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]52515[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]52516[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 161212, member: 1493"] Regulars here will not be surprised that my view is different to common Vincent religion: I believe it is bad practise to set gear change linkage at the G 49 stop as a small amount of adjustment means big position change at the G 66 actuating arm end engaging in the G 59 AS change speed pawl - which drives the G 43 ratchet and its gear change shaft and bevel gear inside the box. Instead I made an alu stop next to the change speed pawl, see my photos below, the alu block with allen bolt and two dowels. The position shown is like shifting up to first gear and the pawl touching the stop. When shifting down to second gear it will stop at the opposite alu face next to the other dowel. So stops are one face next to one dowel, the other stop near the other dowel. Good thing is I don´t mess with the stops for the actuating arm, not used here and not great as the stops there are effectively the ends of the centralising leaf spring getting squeezed onto the curved alu faces of the G 49 lever stop - not perfect in this job. You could do my idea of alu stops on the bike with a hand drill and dremel the faces for fine adjustment, for reaching positions of camplate just near enough for slipping into camplate notches. Be sure to have allen bolt and dowels way out close to the cover as not a lot of space there for filing the stop faces to achieve the perfect stops. For keeping the lever stop in position I made massive plates under the torx bolts and a simple eccentric bush, no hex on it. I set the linkage stop by looks as required , bolt up one torx and place the plain eccentric plus a split washer for a bit of preload over the second M 6 thread hole and tighten the other torx bolt and its massive plate onto the lever stop. Should do I believe… Certainly very first thing is the camplate settings in the gearbox have to be exactly as required. I did corrections on notches and curved slots in camplate for maximum engagement in all gears. So when setting the linkages you take care by feeling the clicks in the gearbox to set linkage stops like with my doweled alu blocks. After this job I cannot imagine how gearchanges can be faulty. Vic [ATTACH type="full" alt="P1070913.JPG"]52513[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="P1070908.JPG"]52514[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="P1070918.JPG"]52515[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="P1070917.JPG"]52516[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
What More Do I Need To Know About The G49 and Its Adjustment
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