It is very risky.......you want the thread to not be a snug fit........When alloy grabs, its just as catastrophic as stainless..........And be especially cautious with any sealant if any used for the same reason.
Misc: Everything Else Weighty Business
- Thread starter vibrac
- Start date
Maybe it's like those " Sub Standard " Stainless Head Nuts, That were around a long time ago ?,
Trev told us to open out the inside a Nats,
Worked for me, After I got them out of the BIN where I had threw them !!.
Trev told us to open out the inside a Nats,
Worked for me, After I got them out of the BIN where I had threw them !!.
" Sub standard" - one of the reasons why I tried my best not to have imperial fasteners. Seems for some time all you get is suspect quality and tolerances all over the place, same goes for taps and more so dies. UNF and UNC may be allright but obsolete British threads are a small market with real sub standard supply, best to be avoided.
When having threaded fasteners with same material you want serious lubrication on threads, else you´ll get seized threads. Does not just concern alu or stainless, try same with unplated steel nuts and bolts, I mean, really unplated, not galvanized or something, plain rusty steel. Same seizure danger as with other combinations of like materials, so stainless or alu is not to blame when the mechanic did not switch on brain and lube threads. I prefer MoS2 paste on stainless or alu, unless I want Loctite for safe joints.
There must have been many thousands of fu***d up BMW exhaust threads and their finned nuts from alu , requiring the specialists for welding up and restoring threads, all from not applying antiseize on threads.
Vic
When having threaded fasteners with same material you want serious lubrication on threads, else you´ll get seized threads. Does not just concern alu or stainless, try same with unplated steel nuts and bolts, I mean, really unplated, not galvanized or something, plain rusty steel. Same seizure danger as with other combinations of like materials, so stainless or alu is not to blame when the mechanic did not switch on brain and lube threads. I prefer MoS2 paste on stainless or alu, unless I want Loctite for safe joints.
There must have been many thousands of fu***d up BMW exhaust threads and their finned nuts from alu , requiring the specialists for welding up and restoring threads, all from not applying antiseize on threads.
Vic
I was also (photo in post 8). I did point out that series D oil plugs for the pumps were aluminum, which Bill mentioned in post 10. I have seen these gall and break the crankcase, but that seems to be a rare occurrence. Care should be taken with aluminum caps and plugs.
David
David