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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Valve Timing
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<blockquote data-quote="roy the mechanic" data-source="post: 118409" data-attributes="member: 1168"><p>The 4 degrees method works well, if you can remove the valve caps. Last week I retimed a twin with the motor in the bike. I measured the position of the inlet rocker at tdc, then turned the motor to tdc at the overlap point, measured again, ended up with .107 lift rear, .111 front. It starts third kick cold, first kick hot The owner collected it sunday, returned 3hours later, "it goes really good, was cruising at 70 mph, next time i looked was going 90". I figure there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Provided the inlet is opened more than the exhaust at tdc you will have a reasonable runner.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="roy the mechanic, post: 118409, member: 1168"] The 4 degrees method works well, if you can remove the valve caps. Last week I retimed a twin with the motor in the bike. I measured the position of the inlet rocker at tdc, then turned the motor to tdc at the overlap point, measured again, ended up with .107 lift rear, .111 front. It starts third kick cold, first kick hot The owner collected it sunday, returned 3hours later, "it goes really good, was cruising at 70 mph, next time i looked was going 90". I figure there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Provided the inlet is opened more than the exhaust at tdc you will have a reasonable runner. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Valve Timing
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