The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
UFM Dimensions
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 114772" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Roy,</p><p></p><p>Nice little project! You have two good location holes up front. I would use two measurements at the rear: from the valve cap receptacle on the head to the bottom of the oil tank, and from the hole center to the top of the side plate on the rear. This will give you a general location for the rear hole and provide the general position of the remaining front holes that will establish the rake.</p><p></p><p>With those two rear dimensions you should be able to finish up the front by welding the plates back on. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]31824[/ATTACH]</p><p>You can make the front plates (I used two pieces on mine because it was easier). You don't need the holes in the plates. You can weld up one side and then transfer the holes through the FT1/2 and drill them. The other side can be completed and you can drill the other way. The holes in the FT1/2 were said to be reamed initially by the Factory. You may want to drill slightly undersized holes and ream them at the end. If your careful, I don't think drilling or reaming will make a difference that will be noticable.</p><p></p><p>Once the front is good and it is within the window that the two rear dimensions allow, I would do roughly the same on the rear. I would fix one side, mark the hole and drill it. I would then restore the other side (minus the slotted washer) and transfer the hole through the FT3. Once the two holes are established, you could then weld on the slotted washers that would finish the rear mount and mill the holes to fit the washers.</p><p></p><p>You have to be a little careful with the FT/3's. Often they are drilled all the way through, but not to size. You might want to run a reamer through the middle. Many were only reamed at the ends because the through bolt was small diameter, it was the ends only that were sized to fit. It is worth checking them. You don't want to use an undersized rod to locate the mounting holes.</p><p></p><p>This UFM would be ideal for a racer because you could steepen the rake by lowering the rear hole while doing the restoration. If anyone is building a racer, it would be worth trading Roy a good UFM for his. </p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 114772, member: 1177"] Roy, Nice little project! You have two good location holes up front. I would use two measurements at the rear: from the valve cap receptacle on the head to the bottom of the oil tank, and from the hole center to the top of the side plate on the rear. This will give you a general location for the rear hole and provide the general position of the remaining front holes that will establish the rake. With those two rear dimensions you should be able to finish up the front by welding the plates back on. [ATTACH type="full"]31824[/ATTACH] You can make the front plates (I used two pieces on mine because it was easier). You don't need the holes in the plates. You can weld up one side and then transfer the holes through the FT1/2 and drill them. The other side can be completed and you can drill the other way. The holes in the FT1/2 were said to be reamed initially by the Factory. You may want to drill slightly undersized holes and ream them at the end. If your careful, I don't think drilling or reaming will make a difference that will be noticable. Once the front is good and it is within the window that the two rear dimensions allow, I would do roughly the same on the rear. I would fix one side, mark the hole and drill it. I would then restore the other side (minus the slotted washer) and transfer the hole through the FT3. Once the two holes are established, you could then weld on the slotted washers that would finish the rear mount and mill the holes to fit the washers. You have to be a little careful with the FT/3's. Often they are drilled all the way through, but not to size. You might want to run a reamer through the middle. Many were only reamed at the ends because the through bolt was small diameter, it was the ends only that were sized to fit. It is worth checking them. You don't want to use an undersized rod to locate the mounting holes. This UFM would be ideal for a racer because you could steepen the rake by lowering the rear hole while doing the restoration. If anyone is building a racer, it would be worth trading Roy a good UFM for his. David [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Vincent's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
UFM Dimensions
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top