Misc: Oil Twin oil breather modification

Cannop

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I thought I'd post this here just in case anyone is interested! I've finally got around to completing the oil breather extension modification on my Rapide. As we know the timed breather continuously pulses an oil mist out of the crankcase as it relieves the internal pressure, and of course the more wear the engine has, then the more the crankcase becomes pressurised, and the more oil escapes.

The issue I've found with this is it coats the underside of my engine and tread down stand resulting in when I park up after a ride it looks as if my bike is leaking torrents of oil as there's always a few drops in various places under the engine after half an hour or so. This is just the film of oil on the underside collecting on the low points of the engine then dropping off to the floor.

I was aware of the modification (that I believe is detailed in "Know Thy Beast") where the crankcase breather is extended down side of the bike so the oil mist is ejected behind the rear brake drum and doesn't coat the underside of the bike.

Anyway, at the end of last year I saw a pair of stainless steel extension tubes advertised in the Vincent HRD group chat on Facebook and thought let's see if I can do anything with those. Photos of machines I've seen with this modification have always had the extension pipes running down the nearside, however if you have a tread down stand it interferes with the actual tread down part of the stand, which means it can't be fully raised (by a considerable amount).

My solution was to run the extension tubes down the offside of the bike, tucked under the exhaust. In this position they are a lot less noticable and more importantly allows the tread down stand to be fully raised and doesn't interfere with the rear stand operation either.

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I also fitted an additional breather extension which comes from the rear cylinder inlet rocker cap, the idea is to lessen the compression in the crankcases as this breather is alway open as opposed to being timed.

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The hose goes through the sidecar mounting hole in the frame, down the other side then connects to the stainless steel extension tubes.

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I've been out for a 40 mile ride today and am pleased to report no more drips from the underside of the crankcases when parked, just the usual single drip from behind the kickstart cover plate. I'm very pleased with results so far and pleased the eye isn't drawn to it as it's mostly hidden by the exhaust. it's also only about a quarter of an inch lower the the pivot point of the stand so the ground clearance isn't affected to any meaningful degree. I'm also pleased that there's a lot less visual impact than the the alternative elephant breather I was considering fitting.

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I'll see how it performs long term, but hopefully it will work as intended!
 

Nigel Spaxman

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My bike has such a strong vacuum in the crankcase it sucks the oil out of the primary case by the lip seal that I have behind the engine sprocket. Little oil comes out the breather, it mainly just spits out some emulsified oil on start up, when the air in the crankcase is evacuated. After my trip to California, I took the primary apart and put the seal in backwards (spring towards the primary sprocket) so that it should better prevent the oil being sucked into the engine. In 4000 miles of riding I never had to add any oil to the engine, I did add about 1 liter to the primary. The oil added to the primary didn't leak out it was sucked into the engine.

The reason my bike has a strong vacuum in the crankcase is I don't time the breather the standard way that it is advised in Richardsons and most other Vincent books. The trouble with the standard way is the breather valve closes right at the point of minimum crankcase volume. This is when the breather valve should remain open for a bit longer. The time when the crankcase pressure must be highest is at this point of minimum crankcase volume. Also the breather valve opens when both pistons are up high in their stroke. Probably air rushes into the breather when it first opens with the standard timing. The standard timing of the breather has it open for about 150 degrees. I time it so it opens and closes about 75 degrees before and after the point of minimum volume in the crankcase. Quite a few other people have had great results with this timing. You will have less oil leaks. No extra breathers are necessary.

I have that drip from behind the kickstart cover plate. I should have put an O ring on the gearbox selector shaft. I will do that one day.
 

Peter Holmes

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Re: Duncan's post, your breathers look to be really nicely made, and unobtrusive, and if they work, that is even better, but I was always under the impression that running an atmospheric breather along with the timed breather was counter productive, as the timed breather attempts to create negative pressure within the crankcase, the atmospheric breather allows air to be sucked in, you might just as well ditch the timed breather altogether, but as I say, if they both work together in practice for you, then that is that theory blown into the atmosphere,
 

greg brillus

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The issue with breathers on Vincent engines in reality is keeping the oil away from the outlet fitting.......This is hard to do on account of the minimal spaces available to do exactly that......On my racing single, I ran the breather outlet from the generator hole at the rear of the timing chest........a big bore outlet that ran straight up and then to the rear......after a couple of good track sessions, the catch tank was nearly over flowing with oil........Upon inspection I could see that the timing gears were acting like a giant oil pump throwing copious amounts of oil at the breather outlet area........I made up an alloy baffle, that was held by the main outlet fitting, this looked mostly like an alloy cap not dissimilar in shape to a lid off a spray can........the right side was carefully blended to match the inside shape of the timing cover or as close as I could get it, but allowing plenty of air to pass at the lower aft area of this alloy cap.......now the catch tank is empty after every run........so keeping the oil away is the real trick.
 

vibrac

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I have mentioned many times that given a good engine with good piston sealing all that is required is a D type breather cap and a PCV valve
I have also recounted that a seasons racing with two D type caps (rear inlet front exhaust) resulted in a spoonful of oil in the mandatory catch tank
Once again there is only movement in a PCV controlled pipe for the first 1000 revs of an engine after that while the engine is running there is no air flow of any amount inwards or outwards from the pipe
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highbury731

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Vibrac - What is the source of that breather valve?

If there is oil or oil mist coming out of a breather pipe, venting it over the final drive chain is a good use for it. I did that to my Super Rocket - I hardly ever had to lube or adjust that chain. Must do that to my Dominator some time soon.
 

vibrac

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Vibrac - What is the source of that breather valve?

If there is oil or oil mist coming out of a breather pipe, venting it over the final drive chain is a good use for it. I did that to my Super Rocket - I hardly ever had to lube or adjust that chain. Must do that to my Dominator some time soon.
Vincentspares.co.uk shop search PCVVALVE
 
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