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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Twin Clutch Drag
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikethebike" data-source="post: 165428" data-attributes="member: 3641"><p>As a relative newcomer to Vincents. I’m glad to say I haven’t suffered from most of the problems in this thread, but tentatively offer the following observations:</p><p></p><p>The chainwheel PD20 should have minimal end-float, being shimmed, at either end, to bring it in line with the engine sprocket (which may also need shimming).</p><p></p><p>The C13 shoe carrier should also have negligible end-float, consistent with it rotating freely, to eliminate endwise movement when the clutch is lifted, and resultant fouling of toggles, plunger housings, etc.</p><p></p><p>The C20 nut is supposedly tightened until the sleeve of C3 expands by about 0.002” (!) – if the various faces are not square to the shaft, this will ‘cock’ C3 to one side.</p><p></p><p>If the shoe plungers do not contact their pins at rest, the simplest solution is to add 2 (hardened) rollers to the pins, rather than making new plungers, or boring out the housings.</p><p></p><p>The inner clutch plate, C21, should be checked for run-out, and for clearance from the C5 pivots, and ideally the C17 bush turned and faced true to the C13 shoe carrier.</p><p></p><p>The three C14 pins between each pair of springs transmit most of the drive, so special attention should be paid to their finish and fit in the C23 plate.</p><p></p><p>It’s OK to smear all rubbing surfaces with HMP grease, as only racers are likely to get the clutch really hot!</p><p></p><p>To get the C23 clutch plate to lift squarely, it is not necessary for all the springs to be the same length. It only needs opposite <em>pairs</em> of springs, when placed in their C30 cups, and installed in the plate, to be the same height from the face of the plate. However, it is necessary for the C15 spacers to be the same length, and to project slightly beyond the C14 pins.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikethebike, post: 165428, member: 3641"] As a relative newcomer to Vincents. I’m glad to say I haven’t suffered from most of the problems in this thread, but tentatively offer the following observations: The chainwheel PD20 should have minimal end-float, being shimmed, at either end, to bring it in line with the engine sprocket (which may also need shimming). The C13 shoe carrier should also have negligible end-float, consistent with it rotating freely, to eliminate endwise movement when the clutch is lifted, and resultant fouling of toggles, plunger housings, etc. The C20 nut is supposedly tightened until the sleeve of C3 expands by about 0.002” (!) – if the various faces are not square to the shaft, this will ‘cock’ C3 to one side. If the shoe plungers do not contact their pins at rest, the simplest solution is to add 2 (hardened) rollers to the pins, rather than making new plungers, or boring out the housings. The inner clutch plate, C21, should be checked for run-out, and for clearance from the C5 pivots, and ideally the C17 bush turned and faced true to the C13 shoe carrier. The three C14 pins between each pair of springs transmit most of the drive, so special attention should be paid to their finish and fit in the C23 plate. It’s OK to smear all rubbing surfaces with HMP grease, as only racers are likely to get the clutch really hot! To get the C23 clutch plate to lift squarely, it is not necessary for all the springs to be the same length. It only needs opposite [I]pairs[/I] of springs, when placed in their C30 cups, and installed in the plate, to be the same height from the face of the plate. However, it is necessary for the C15 spacers to be the same length, and to project slightly beyond the C14 pins. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Twin Clutch Drag
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