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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Trevor Southwell re brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 177689" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Use a thicker sheet steel and make your own.......On well used brake plates the cam bores wear quite badly.......this will give very poor braking as too much lost travel as the cam rotates......don't use soft modern linings, these don't really work well enough, and don't give much bite.......when arcing the oversized linings in a lathe.......actual best method is to assemble up the shoes, cam, serrated washer, brake lever, nut and washer.......then wire tie the end of the arm in the correct direction as if the brake cable was pulling on the brake lever.......this by not more than 10 mm of travel.....cut the shoe lining down till the same size as the ID of each drum.......This coupled with good linings will give a good result with near nil bed in time.......The course woven linings work well as do some of the specialised hard linings with metal impregnated through the material......with a good sharp lathe tool they will trim down to size with several cuts, not more than 8 to 10 thou per cut and not more as the material is too hard.......I always straighten the pivot pins first as these are often bent inward.......I also use the nilos bearing seals as well......the smallest ingress of grease from the bearings will render the small brake linings useless.......same, same for the speedo drive if it is pumped too full of grease. I have re done my brakes several times to get a good result not simply settling for something that seems ok, but was better before.........Only trouble with hard linings is they can tend to get noisy/squeeling after some time.......The right material and machined to suit each drum is the best way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 177689, member: 597"] Use a thicker sheet steel and make your own.......On well used brake plates the cam bores wear quite badly.......this will give very poor braking as too much lost travel as the cam rotates......don't use soft modern linings, these don't really work well enough, and don't give much bite.......when arcing the oversized linings in a lathe.......actual best method is to assemble up the shoes, cam, serrated washer, brake lever, nut and washer.......then wire tie the end of the arm in the correct direction as if the brake cable was pulling on the brake lever.......this by not more than 10 mm of travel.....cut the shoe lining down till the same size as the ID of each drum.......This coupled with good linings will give a good result with near nil bed in time.......The course woven linings work well as do some of the specialised hard linings with metal impregnated through the material......with a good sharp lathe tool they will trim down to size with several cuts, not more than 8 to 10 thou per cut and not more as the material is too hard.......I always straighten the pivot pins first as these are often bent inward.......I also use the nilos bearing seals as well......the smallest ingress of grease from the bearings will render the small brake linings useless.......same, same for the speedo drive if it is pumped too full of grease. I have re done my brakes several times to get a good result not simply settling for something that seems ok, but was better before.........Only trouble with hard linings is they can tend to get noisy/squeeling after some time.......The right material and machined to suit each drum is the best way. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Trevor Southwell re brakes
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