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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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<blockquote data-quote="fogrider" data-source="post: 174149" data-attributes="member: 2655"><p>Carl, there are lengthy posts on here about cam timing, various methods possible, but the quick and easy way to get a rough idea if the cams are where they should be is " valves rocking ". </p><p>On the non compression stroke, both valves should be an equal amount open at TDC, ie they should rock around TDC. ( OK folks, 4 before ! ).</p><p>To be more accurate, with your timing disc on, the inlet valves should be fully open around 100 deg after TDC, give or take a few degrees depending on which cam . 97 typical.</p><p>These checks will show if you're in the right field. If not, back to the forums for the lowdown on cam timing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fogrider, post: 174149, member: 2655"] Carl, there are lengthy posts on here about cam timing, various methods possible, but the quick and easy way to get a rough idea if the cams are where they should be is " valves rocking ". On the non compression stroke, both valves should be an equal amount open at TDC, ie they should rock around TDC. ( OK folks, 4 before ! ). To be more accurate, with your timing disc on, the inlet valves should be fully open around 100 deg after TDC, give or take a few degrees depending on which cam . 97 typical. These checks will show if you're in the right field. If not, back to the forums for the lowdown on cam timing. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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