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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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<blockquote data-quote="CarlHungness" data-source="post: 174141" data-attributes="member: 2517"><p>I think what you are saying is not to use my spark plug stop that sets the plot at 35 degrees, rather go</p><p>through my drill of TDC, then back it up only 8 degrees with ATD closed. Your photo shows the ATD fully</p><p>open, (ears held by a Ty-Wrap and weight on the ATD to take out the slack, correct?) It had been suggested</p><p>I follow what you've said, only to use 4 degrees BTDC, not 8. The writer noted I may get some pinking out</p><p>of the engine with such a setting. Then too I understand it is not unheard of for the cam pinion to slip on the </p><p>cam proper and at the moment I don't have the knowledge to check if that's what happened. We know for </p><p>fact the new ATD has 1/4" separation between the ears, and the original was 5/16". I have never re-checked</p><p>timing in past years when I installed the ATD (or the B-TH). I have always put the ATD on, ears blocked open</p><p>set at 39 degrees, light flickering, never used a bolt in the earth brush hole previously to hold the armature, now</p><p>I do and it's bitch to finger tighten it and keep the light OFF..light wants to go ON every time I finger tighten.</p><p> This time after setting the new ATD and no result, I re-installed the piston stop after getting to TDC, backed</p><p>it up to allow room for the stop, put it in, put piston against it, looked at the magneto and the SHOE sure</p><p>seemed to be in the original place I set it for my now 35 degree mark. The 'mark' is just damn close to the </p><p>old 39 degree mark, my old pencil mark still there. Thus it seems as though the shoe is at the 35 degree mark</p><p>where I set it originally with the ATD ears blocked open. Shouldn't the shoe be many degrees away from that mark</p><p>(in a clockwise direction) if in fact the ATD advances the mag? </p><p> I checked the timing to see: Did the ATD slip on the mag shaft, am I certain I set it at 35 degrees. The ATD</p><p>did not slip far as I can tell, it went on perfectly, using ONLY the bolt, NO socket to set it as I had done in</p><p>past years. So I'm asking just why in the Hell the bike started last week, ran great for 60 seconds and quit.</p><p> I got an ultrasonic cleaner today, took off carbs, cleaned them, and once again, no result. No pop, no kick back.</p><p> I'm getting spark, took out rear plug, held it on the Britax bar, kicked it and can see spark. </p><p> Have had the pipes off 7-8 times, drain oil, take off timing chest, and on and on...will do it all again, but have to</p><p>get some knowledge on how to actually check the cam timing to see if something has slipped on a shaft.</p><p> Really appreciate the suggestions. I am supposed to be practicing my oxy welding aluminum and haven't </p><p>fired the torch in a couple of weeks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CarlHungness, post: 174141, member: 2517"] I think what you are saying is not to use my spark plug stop that sets the plot at 35 degrees, rather go through my drill of TDC, then back it up only 8 degrees with ATD closed. Your photo shows the ATD fully open, (ears held by a Ty-Wrap and weight on the ATD to take out the slack, correct?) It had been suggested I follow what you've said, only to use 4 degrees BTDC, not 8. The writer noted I may get some pinking out of the engine with such a setting. Then too I understand it is not unheard of for the cam pinion to slip on the cam proper and at the moment I don't have the knowledge to check if that's what happened. We know for fact the new ATD has 1/4" separation between the ears, and the original was 5/16". I have never re-checked timing in past years when I installed the ATD (or the B-TH). I have always put the ATD on, ears blocked open set at 39 degrees, light flickering, never used a bolt in the earth brush hole previously to hold the armature, now I do and it's bitch to finger tighten it and keep the light OFF..light wants to go ON every time I finger tighten. This time after setting the new ATD and no result, I re-installed the piston stop after getting to TDC, backed it up to allow room for the stop, put it in, put piston against it, looked at the magneto and the SHOE sure seemed to be in the original place I set it for my now 35 degree mark. The 'mark' is just damn close to the old 39 degree mark, my old pencil mark still there. Thus it seems as though the shoe is at the 35 degree mark where I set it originally with the ATD ears blocked open. Shouldn't the shoe be many degrees away from that mark (in a clockwise direction) if in fact the ATD advances the mag? I checked the timing to see: Did the ATD slip on the mag shaft, am I certain I set it at 35 degrees. The ATD did not slip far as I can tell, it went on perfectly, using ONLY the bolt, NO socket to set it as I had done in past years. So I'm asking just why in the Hell the bike started last week, ran great for 60 seconds and quit. I got an ultrasonic cleaner today, took off carbs, cleaned them, and once again, no result. No pop, no kick back. I'm getting spark, took out rear plug, held it on the Britax bar, kicked it and can see spark. Have had the pipes off 7-8 times, drain oil, take off timing chest, and on and on...will do it all again, but have to get some knowledge on how to actually check the cam timing to see if something has slipped on a shaft. Really appreciate the suggestions. I am supposed to be practicing my oxy welding aluminum and haven't fired the torch in a couple of weeks. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Still Can't Start My Twin, Replaced Mag, But Not A Pop
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