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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Steering Damper: How To Drill Holes In FF2 Without Dismantling The Girdraulic Fork.
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<blockquote data-quote="Paul Coene" data-source="post: 161585" data-attributes="member: 2998"><p>The steering damper as sold by Norman Walker comes with a stainless steel plate that has to be fixed to the FF2 of the stearing head. If your fork has the two holes drilled, it is a piece of cake but if not, you'll have to drill those yourself. I wasn't very keen to take the fork apart, but drilling those holes accurately with the F22 in situ didn't seem to be feasible. Defining the starting point for the drill is one thing but where will the drill turn up on the other side ? So I made a guide tool for the drill.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]52824[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Or actually two of them. (you'll need a lathe to do this). Most important dimensions: the shaft diameter must be the same as the holes in the stainless steel plate (9mm) so that the guidance sits square in the plate. With the tool in the chuck , drill a small hole through the tool (for example 3,5 mm) Now, mount the plate with the 2 guide tools (shaft facing down) inserted on the lower end of the steering head and, between plate and stearing head, place a spacer with the same thickness of the flange of the tool. (for example 4 mm). Stay next to the motorcycle and check if the guide tools run in parallel to the headset. If not, adjust the thickness of the spacer (I had to add 1 mm). Use the 1/4 " rod to hold the plate in place. Now, after removing front wheel and mudguard, the holes can be drilled with a small drilling machine (the one I used was one from the Lidl, so that's small enough) and drill the holes square from beneath with the same 3,5 mm drill. After you've drilled the first hole, place a drill through the hole of tool, plate and stem so when drilling the second hole, the distance between both will be exactly the same of those in the plate. Next, remove the guide tools and enlarge the bore (in the chuck again) to for instance 5 mm. Repeat the procedure described above and enlarge the holes in the stem. Those will work as a guide now themselves to drill the requested 8 mm square enough.</p><p></p><p>I hope I made it clear. If the description sounds a bit funny (I'm sure it does) just imagine you've got mounting instructions from Aliexpress. It can't be worse, can it ?</p><p>And else, there is still something like "google translate" or similar.</p><p>I hope it helps,</p><p>Paul.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Paul Coene, post: 161585, member: 2998"] The steering damper as sold by Norman Walker comes with a stainless steel plate that has to be fixed to the FF2 of the stearing head. If your fork has the two holes drilled, it is a piece of cake but if not, you'll have to drill those yourself. I wasn't very keen to take the fork apart, but drilling those holes accurately with the F22 in situ didn't seem to be feasible. Defining the starting point for the drill is one thing but where will the drill turn up on the other side ? So I made a guide tool for the drill. [ATTACH type="full" alt="Steering stem.jpg"]52824[/ATTACH] Or actually two of them. (you'll need a lathe to do this). Most important dimensions: the shaft diameter must be the same as the holes in the stainless steel plate (9mm) so that the guidance sits square in the plate. With the tool in the chuck , drill a small hole through the tool (for example 3,5 mm) Now, mount the plate with the 2 guide tools (shaft facing down) inserted on the lower end of the steering head and, between plate and stearing head, place a spacer with the same thickness of the flange of the tool. (for example 4 mm). Stay next to the motorcycle and check if the guide tools run in parallel to the headset. If not, adjust the thickness of the spacer (I had to add 1 mm). Use the 1/4 " rod to hold the plate in place. Now, after removing front wheel and mudguard, the holes can be drilled with a small drilling machine (the one I used was one from the Lidl, so that's small enough) and drill the holes square from beneath with the same 3,5 mm drill. After you've drilled the first hole, place a drill through the hole of tool, plate and stem so when drilling the second hole, the distance between both will be exactly the same of those in the plate. Next, remove the guide tools and enlarge the bore (in the chuck again) to for instance 5 mm. Repeat the procedure described above and enlarge the holes in the stem. Those will work as a guide now themselves to drill the requested 8 mm square enough. I hope I made it clear. If the description sounds a bit funny (I'm sure it does) just imagine you've got mounting instructions from Aliexpress. It can't be worse, can it ? And else, there is still something like "google translate" or similar. I hope it helps, Paul. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Steering Damper: How To Drill Holes In FF2 Without Dismantling The Girdraulic Fork.
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