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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
spoke patterns
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<blockquote data-quote="A_HRD" data-source="post: 199" data-attributes="member: 49"><p><strong>Spoke Glitches</strong></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">Hopefully, jellywrestler, you haven't laced-up your wheels yet. There's a couple of potential glitches you might wish to be aware of. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">1. On the 'Cross 4' spoke pattern (the Vincent std) there is a conflict between certain of the spokes and the head (at the bent end) of the adjacent one. This usually only occurs with the 8 gauge spokes (about 0.158 dia) or of course 8/10 butted. The effect is to bend the spokes passing over the outside face of the spoke-flange; (it doesn't affect the inside ones). This occurs probably because the "head" at the bent end of replacement spokes has increased in size over the years from 1/4 to 9/32 approx. This is hard to explain so I'm going to try and insert a picture.....</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">[You didn't manage to upload your photo - Ed!]</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">The fix is to take each spoke in turn and hold it up looking at the head with the rest of the spoke pointing up vertically. (Only 20 of each wheel-set need the following treatment). At the 10 o'clock point on the head you need to remove about 20-30 thou of metal from the head circumference in the form of a flat. This will provide sufficient clearance for the adjacent spoke to pass by without being bent and stressed. I found that the easiest way to do it was to carefully touch the side of the head against my belt sander fitted with a smooth worn belt; but be careful! </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">2. The next glitch is with some (not all) pattern brake drums which have a little too much material on the back. Instead of fitting flush up against the spoke flange, the drum contacts the 8-gauge spokes first - just by a few thou. When you tighten the drum down with the nylocs, this condition is likely to crack the inner drum flange- as well as stress the spokes. Anyone can check their wheels for this problem with the wheels still in the bike; just put a 5 thou feeler gauge between drum and spokes to ensure there is clearance. If you have the problem there are 2 simple fixes: A. Machine away material from the back of the drum. B. Insert a thin shim between the spoke-flange and the drum (I'm currently having some made in SS - with 10 holes so they'll fit Shadow rears as well). </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Georgia'"><span style="color: Sienna">Ducking for cover now..... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" /> </span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="A_HRD, post: 199, member: 49"] [b]Spoke Glitches[/b] [FONT="Georgia"][COLOR="Sienna"]Hopefully, jellywrestler, you haven't laced-up your wheels yet. There's a couple of potential glitches you might wish to be aware of. :eek: 1. On the 'Cross 4' spoke pattern (the Vincent std) there is a conflict between certain of the spokes and the head (at the bent end) of the adjacent one. This usually only occurs with the 8 gauge spokes (about 0.158 dia) or of course 8/10 butted. The effect is to bend the spokes passing over the outside face of the spoke-flange; (it doesn't affect the inside ones). This occurs probably because the "head" at the bent end of replacement spokes has increased in size over the years from 1/4 to 9/32 approx. This is hard to explain so I'm going to try and insert a picture..... [You didn't manage to upload your photo - Ed!] The fix is to take each spoke in turn and hold it up looking at the head with the rest of the spoke pointing up vertically. (Only 20 of each wheel-set need the following treatment). At the 10 o'clock point on the head you need to remove about 20-30 thou of metal from the head circumference in the form of a flat. This will provide sufficient clearance for the adjacent spoke to pass by without being bent and stressed. I found that the easiest way to do it was to carefully touch the side of the head against my belt sander fitted with a smooth worn belt; but be careful! 2. The next glitch is with some (not all) pattern brake drums which have a little too much material on the back. Instead of fitting flush up against the spoke flange, the drum contacts the 8-gauge spokes first - just by a few thou. When you tighten the drum down with the nylocs, this condition is likely to crack the inner drum flange- as well as stress the spokes. Anyone can check their wheels for this problem with the wheels still in the bike; just put a 5 thou feeler gauge between drum and spokes to ensure there is clearance. If you have the problem there are 2 simple fixes: A. Machine away material from the back of the drum. B. Insert a thin shim between the spoke-flange and the drum (I'm currently having some made in SS - with 10 holes so they'll fit Shadow rears as well). Ducking for cover now..... :p [/COLOR][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
spoke patterns
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