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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Series D oil tank
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 92319" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Gary,</p><p></p><p>When I noticed yesterday that no one had answered your question I did not think it would generate this kind of interest!</p><p></p><p>It seems to me the the oil is fine.</p><p></p><p>In general, the D breathers were a compromise due to cost. They seem to work fine if the engine is tight. I like the timed breather or a reed valve on my own bikes. The D breathers had modified top valve guides so they would pass air and oil more easily. That is a bit of work to do. Most owners want the on the rockers because that is the best way to get rid of the oil and air. Oil laying around the valves can often find its way down the guides.</p><p></p><p>I would not have thought that the D oil tank could become pressurized enough to leak through the vent hole of the cap unless something odd was happening. I know the scavenge side of the pump works twice as hard, but it only pumps what is there in the chamber. I would have thought that it would not be willing to pass air unless your crank cases were unduly pressurized. If your oil tank is unduly pressurized, I would hate to pass that back to the engine via the mod.</p><p></p><p>Based on the assumption that most things are OK in the engine, I assumed the oil weeping was from the splashing in the tank filler.</p><p></p><p>A view of the chain oiler is shown on page 19 of the Rider's Handbook. If you screw the taper into the tiny hole you can see, air and a very small amount of oil can still enter the chain oiler tube from the large hole on the right side of the block That creates a drain for what I assume is any excess oil from that tiny chain oiler hole that the metering screw works on. The only 100% way to block off the chain oil tube is to plug the end coming out of the tank.</p><p></p><p>It might be worth trying an aluminum disc under the screw to determine whether your problem is just splashing or something more serious like splashing plus pressurization from the engine. You might also run a little less oil in the tank as a test to see if increasing the air volume gives you any benefit, like allowing the splashing to subside a bit.</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 92319, member: 1177"] Gary, When I noticed yesterday that no one had answered your question I did not think it would generate this kind of interest! It seems to me the the oil is fine. In general, the D breathers were a compromise due to cost. They seem to work fine if the engine is tight. I like the timed breather or a reed valve on my own bikes. The D breathers had modified top valve guides so they would pass air and oil more easily. That is a bit of work to do. Most owners want the on the rockers because that is the best way to get rid of the oil and air. Oil laying around the valves can often find its way down the guides. I would not have thought that the D oil tank could become pressurized enough to leak through the vent hole of the cap unless something odd was happening. I know the scavenge side of the pump works twice as hard, but it only pumps what is there in the chamber. I would have thought that it would not be willing to pass air unless your crank cases were unduly pressurized. If your oil tank is unduly pressurized, I would hate to pass that back to the engine via the mod. Based on the assumption that most things are OK in the engine, I assumed the oil weeping was from the splashing in the tank filler. A view of the chain oiler is shown on page 19 of the Rider's Handbook. If you screw the taper into the tiny hole you can see, air and a very small amount of oil can still enter the chain oiler tube from the large hole on the right side of the block That creates a drain for what I assume is any excess oil from that tiny chain oiler hole that the metering screw works on. The only 100% way to block off the chain oil tube is to plug the end coming out of the tank. It might be worth trying an aluminum disc under the screw to determine whether your problem is just splashing or something more serious like splashing plus pressurization from the engine. You might also run a little less oil in the tank as a test to see if increasing the air volume gives you any benefit, like allowing the splashing to subside a bit. David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Series D oil tank
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