The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Series D oil tank leak
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Gary Gittleson" data-source="post: 114608" data-attributes="member: 3625"><p>I've tried Dowty seals but they don't work because there isn't enough mating surface.</p><p></p><p>The banjo bolt replacement was from the club and it goes straight in, so I'm sure the threads are correct. </p><p></p><p>By eye, the threads seem to be square to the face but I'll try to get a better measurement of that. I did order the crush washers. If it's square, my next try will be to use the new washers and some sort of loctite sealant. I have their special thread-leak sealant. I don't plan to use it on the threads but rather on the washers. </p><p></p><p>If it's not square, I'll have to figure out a way to fix that as per Mr. Watson's suggestion. But I'm quite sure it's not out anywhere near 1/16". With the banjo bolt in place, I can't see daylight between it and the facing tank protrusion. Since this is just an oil tank and not an engine casing, I can simply hold it up to the light and see it from all sides.</p><p></p><p>The bike's resting for the winter, so I'll take my time and post results as I progress. </p><p></p><p>Thanks for the replies.</p><p>Happy New Year!</p><p></p><p>Gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Gary Gittleson, post: 114608, member: 3625"] I've tried Dowty seals but they don't work because there isn't enough mating surface. The banjo bolt replacement was from the club and it goes straight in, so I'm sure the threads are correct. By eye, the threads seem to be square to the face but I'll try to get a better measurement of that. I did order the crush washers. If it's square, my next try will be to use the new washers and some sort of loctite sealant. I have their special thread-leak sealant. I don't plan to use it on the threads but rather on the washers. If it's not square, I'll have to figure out a way to fix that as per Mr. Watson's suggestion. But I'm quite sure it's not out anywhere near 1/16". With the banjo bolt in place, I can't see daylight between it and the facing tank protrusion. Since this is just an oil tank and not an engine casing, I can simply hold it up to the light and see it from all sides. The bike's resting for the winter, so I'll take my time and post results as I progress. Thanks for the replies. Happy New Year! Gary [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Irving's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Series D oil tank leak
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top