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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Request for advice on dynamo fitting problems
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<blockquote data-quote="BlackLightning998" data-source="post: 5328" data-attributes="member: 109"><p><strong>Here's a picture of the problem:</strong></p><p></p><p>Evening All,</p><p></p><p>Following on from Len's experience and advice I've been looking at my dynamo problem again. When I fit it all up right now, with the dynamo sitting up tight to the primary, the sprocket just touches the front face of the centre span of the chain - so it needs to go back by 1/16th (or thereabouts) to sit centre span, moving the dynamo back off the primary face. So I could do that by moving the dynamo back 1/16th or perhaps by moving the PD16 up the armature shaft 1/16th by easing it - however as you'll see from the picture there is more than a 1/16th needed to get the nut to sit home on a full thread. I have the clearance inside for the PD16 to go up the shaft and still remain front and proud of the inside of the primary - so the oil thrower will not foul.</p><p></p><p>Also following John's sensible logic, I only plan to modify the sprocket carrier (PD16) the drive ring and the nut - so nothing too disaterous to replace if it does not work.</p><p></p><p>I therefore deduce that to solve the first problem I have identified (can't get a full nut on) I would need to do both, move the PD16 and also the modify to have the turned spigot and recess for the nut that Len describes.</p><p></p><p>The drawing envisages having to have the dynamo off the primary as it offers three standard thickness's of PD19 spacing shim to slip on the end of the dynamo before it meets the primary cover.</p><p></p><p>However by moving the PD16 I will remove any forward play movement on the dynamo - i.e. if I then bolt it all up and have got the measurement wrong, then I risk the sprocket fouling the rear edge of the centre chain span and having no free play to move it forward.</p><p></p><p>I'm leaning towards having both done - and if I get the measurement wrong then I simply fit a new PD16 and I'm back to where I was, but with a recessed nut I have best chance of getting a secure fixing with loctite, a tab washer and perhaps even the mod of lockwiring the nut to a allen screw placed into the hole in the sprocket with loctite and filed off flush on the back face. By having both done I maximise my chances of getting a full set of threads through the nut. </p><p></p><p>Call me paranoid but I have heard of a few disasters with the nut coming off causing a chain lockup, snap and exit through the crankcase/primary cover. I was taught to get a full sets of threads through the nut - or risk a problem.</p><p></p><p>Any further thoughts or advice on the attached photograph or my notes above would be most gratefully received before I start work?</p><p></p><p>Regards all,</p><p></p><p>Stuart</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BlackLightning998, post: 5328, member: 109"] [b]Here's a picture of the problem:[/b] Evening All, Following on from Len's experience and advice I've been looking at my dynamo problem again. When I fit it all up right now, with the dynamo sitting up tight to the primary, the sprocket just touches the front face of the centre span of the chain - so it needs to go back by 1/16th (or thereabouts) to sit centre span, moving the dynamo back off the primary face. So I could do that by moving the dynamo back 1/16th or perhaps by moving the PD16 up the armature shaft 1/16th by easing it - however as you'll see from the picture there is more than a 1/16th needed to get the nut to sit home on a full thread. I have the clearance inside for the PD16 to go up the shaft and still remain front and proud of the inside of the primary - so the oil thrower will not foul. Also following John's sensible logic, I only plan to modify the sprocket carrier (PD16) the drive ring and the nut - so nothing too disaterous to replace if it does not work. I therefore deduce that to solve the first problem I have identified (can't get a full nut on) I would need to do both, move the PD16 and also the modify to have the turned spigot and recess for the nut that Len describes. The drawing envisages having to have the dynamo off the primary as it offers three standard thickness's of PD19 spacing shim to slip on the end of the dynamo before it meets the primary cover. However by moving the PD16 I will remove any forward play movement on the dynamo - i.e. if I then bolt it all up and have got the measurement wrong, then I risk the sprocket fouling the rear edge of the centre chain span and having no free play to move it forward. I'm leaning towards having both done - and if I get the measurement wrong then I simply fit a new PD16 and I'm back to where I was, but with a recessed nut I have best chance of getting a secure fixing with loctite, a tab washer and perhaps even the mod of lockwiring the nut to a allen screw placed into the hole in the sprocket with loctite and filed off flush on the back face. By having both done I maximise my chances of getting a full set of threads through the nut. Call me paranoid but I have heard of a few disasters with the nut coming off causing a chain lockup, snap and exit through the crankcase/primary cover. I was taught to get a full sets of threads through the nut - or risk a problem. Any further thoughts or advice on the attached photograph or my notes above would be most gratefully received before I start work? Regards all, Stuart [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Request for advice on dynamo fitting problems
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