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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Refreshing Vincent Twin Clutch seals and pieces
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 104379" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Craig there are a few issues with these parts, yes it is possible the 2 ba threads in the C14's are not deep enough and difficult to cut if the pins have been hardened. The replacement 2 ba screws are usually made of stainless now verses the originals in steel, so that can create thread binding issues right there. Try running a good 2 ba tap down the holes to clean up, and use some anti seize on the threads or else they will grab. The threads don't actually need to be as long as they are, but to assemble the outer ring plate and get the lot to start compressing the 6 springs is the reason they are so long. I try not to replace any of these parts unless it is absolutely necessary for these reasons, the C14 pins generally are pretty good except the fragile end where the C 35 wire clip passes through all 9 pins and the two where the C 11/1 plungers bare against, causing "flat spots" on the sides of the pins. This adds to the back lash of the C 13 plate carrier assembly once assembled, the plungers against these two C 14 pins, and this back lash should be delt with and minimized as much as you can. On most clutch rebuilds I also find the Links C 10 and the shoe pivot pins C 9 tend to get quite worn and become very sloppy, so I replace all of these, and they too require some "Fettling" to get a good and "Free" fit without binding or loss of movement, especially the Link C 10, the end where it fits the C 13 can be too tight and binds up, so some metal needs to be removed on the inner end of the squared section. There is a hell of a lot to setting up one of these clutches, and have it all work well. Cheers..........Greg.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 104379, member: 597"] Craig there are a few issues with these parts, yes it is possible the 2 ba threads in the C14's are not deep enough and difficult to cut if the pins have been hardened. The replacement 2 ba screws are usually made of stainless now verses the originals in steel, so that can create thread binding issues right there. Try running a good 2 ba tap down the holes to clean up, and use some anti seize on the threads or else they will grab. The threads don't actually need to be as long as they are, but to assemble the outer ring plate and get the lot to start compressing the 6 springs is the reason they are so long. I try not to replace any of these parts unless it is absolutely necessary for these reasons, the C14 pins generally are pretty good except the fragile end where the C 35 wire clip passes through all 9 pins and the two where the C 11/1 plungers bare against, causing "flat spots" on the sides of the pins. This adds to the back lash of the C 13 plate carrier assembly once assembled, the plungers against these two C 14 pins, and this back lash should be delt with and minimized as much as you can. On most clutch rebuilds I also find the Links C 10 and the shoe pivot pins C 9 tend to get quite worn and become very sloppy, so I replace all of these, and they too require some "Fettling" to get a good and "Free" fit without binding or loss of movement, especially the Link C 10, the end where it fits the C 13 can be too tight and binds up, so some metal needs to be removed on the inner end of the squared section. There is a hell of a lot to setting up one of these clutches, and have it all work well. Cheers..........Greg. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Refreshing Vincent Twin Clutch seals and pieces
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