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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
PR18W - Wiring Diagram
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<blockquote data-quote="Jim Bush" data-source="post: 169252" data-attributes="member: 3807"><p>I have just finished the wiring on #2114 (ex Dan Smith's TDF version) which involved a 12V upgrade, fitting a Grossert Starter, Alton 12V Generator and LED direction indicators.</p><p></p><p>I used mostly standard British (Lucas) wiring colours that I am familiar with, from the 60-70's bikes, along the brass bullet wire ends and the Lucas rubber sleeve connection blocks. The brass bullets are crimped over tinned wire ends and fully soldered. I have found this is a very robust wiring system. I have used other types of clear plastic insulated wire connections, but the heat & oil tends to deform the covers and makes disassembly/reassembly difficult.</p><p></p><p>Sleeving is heat shrink throughout, except at the steering neck where a flexible vinyl cover is used. The connections at the rear of the bike are under the battery, where the starter solenoid goes. I install a peice of rubber sheet below the battery to sheild the wires from the dirt/grime produced by the nearby chain. The wires are long enough to access from the horn side. The rest are all housed in the headlamp shell. I have the 6 1/2" Miller shell and everything fits in there very nicely, including the flasher unit on velcro.</p><p></p><p>I ran black earth wires to every component, avoiding the issues of frame/forks/fender earth continuity. As I also have freshly painted handlebars, I ran secondary earth wires directly to the magneto kill and the starter button.</p><p></p><p>The LED indicators for turn signals and high beam are stand 12V 4mm LED's available in bulk on line. I carefully drilled the back of ammeter housing (after disassembly of the ammeter) and super glued the LED's in place. Green for turn signals and blue for high beam. The opaque white ammeter shell transmits the colours nicely, without having to have secondary indicator lamps.</p><p></p><p>The handlebar switch has horn, high/low beam/turn signals. I chose a unit that has heavier gauge wire meaning no relays are required. In my previous version, I had chosen a light weight switch with latching high beam and tiny wires for the horn/lights etc - requiring the use of relays. I found this unit has sufficiently sized wires and also an actual high-low beam switch.</p><p></p><p>The wiring was completed over 2 nights, once I had organized the supplies and components.</p><p></p><p>I did up the wiring chart before hand and modified as required during assembly - it is an invaluable tool in making the job as simple as possible. I printed on 2no. 11x17 sheets in colour and glued it to a peice of cardboard for use during the job.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jim Bush, post: 169252, member: 3807"] I have just finished the wiring on #2114 (ex Dan Smith's TDF version) which involved a 12V upgrade, fitting a Grossert Starter, Alton 12V Generator and LED direction indicators. I used mostly standard British (Lucas) wiring colours that I am familiar with, from the 60-70's bikes, along the brass bullet wire ends and the Lucas rubber sleeve connection blocks. The brass bullets are crimped over tinned wire ends and fully soldered. I have found this is a very robust wiring system. I have used other types of clear plastic insulated wire connections, but the heat & oil tends to deform the covers and makes disassembly/reassembly difficult. Sleeving is heat shrink throughout, except at the steering neck where a flexible vinyl cover is used. The connections at the rear of the bike are under the battery, where the starter solenoid goes. I install a peice of rubber sheet below the battery to sheild the wires from the dirt/grime produced by the nearby chain. The wires are long enough to access from the horn side. The rest are all housed in the headlamp shell. I have the 6 1/2" Miller shell and everything fits in there very nicely, including the flasher unit on velcro. I ran black earth wires to every component, avoiding the issues of frame/forks/fender earth continuity. As I also have freshly painted handlebars, I ran secondary earth wires directly to the magneto kill and the starter button. The LED indicators for turn signals and high beam are stand 12V 4mm LED's available in bulk on line. I carefully drilled the back of ammeter housing (after disassembly of the ammeter) and super glued the LED's in place. Green for turn signals and blue for high beam. The opaque white ammeter shell transmits the colours nicely, without having to have secondary indicator lamps. The handlebar switch has horn, high/low beam/turn signals. I chose a unit that has heavier gauge wire meaning no relays are required. In my previous version, I had chosen a light weight switch with latching high beam and tiny wires for the horn/lights etc - requiring the use of relays. I found this unit has sufficiently sized wires and also an actual high-low beam switch. The wiring was completed over 2 nights, once I had organized the supplies and components. I did up the wiring chart before hand and modified as required during assembly - it is an invaluable tool in making the job as simple as possible. I printed on 2no. 11x17 sheets in colour and glued it to a peice of cardboard for use during the job. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
PR18W - Wiring Diagram
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