Misc: Electrical (General) PR18W - Wiring Diagram

G

Graham Smith

Guest
Someone told me the other day that they were struggling to find a Vincent wiring diagram.

This is the one that the VOC Spares Company Limited give out with their pre-made wiring harness.



PR18w Diagram.png
 

Alyson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I did purchase a new wiring harness from the spares and was surprised to find no wiring diagram. Only a sheet of paper with the numbers of the wires and a vague description of were they went. It would have been helpful to have this diagram but I managed to pull it off without. Hopefully the new sets do indeed come with this. I'll copy it and keep with my electrics box. Better late than never I always say.
 

jim burgess

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I had to re-wire a bike and was given a VOC kit with the same list of wires. I note in the above diagram that the cables are colour coded, all the wires in the supplied kit were black with number tabs attached. It was a tedious pain and for a dullard like me very difficult to work out. But maybe that is just me... I am told that in the original loom all the wires were black? But our original bikes did not have electronic ignition, Altons, indicators, Elephants trunks, nor Giraffes bikinis, so maybe colour coding would be a useful mod...?
Cheers
Jim Burgess
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
The only original wiring I've seen, on a "D", was black, with little coloured sleeves at each end to identify the cables. The wiring diagram is in the Rider's Handbook, the lengths are in "Richardson."
 

LoneStar

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Original Miller wiring harness; as noted, could be Vincent or Velocette (did anyone else use Miller harnesses?):


original Miller wiring harness a (2).jpg




original Miller Wiring Harness a.JPG






original Miller wiring harness c (2).jpg
 

Alyson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
For my harness, I removed the shrink wrap and pulled the wires through a length of the old cloth loom that I purchased decades ago. I added
a few of my own wires, all black, and to the horn I remember cutting lengths and soldered all ends. The harness on my '52 Rapide was original and all black. I've saved it in a box for "just in case" which usually means I can't bear to throw it away
 

Jim Bush

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have just finished the wiring on #2114 (ex Dan Smith's TDF version) which involved a 12V upgrade, fitting a Grossert Starter, Alton 12V Generator and LED direction indicators.

I used mostly standard British (Lucas) wiring colours that I am familiar with, from the 60-70's bikes, along the brass bullet wire ends and the Lucas rubber sleeve connection blocks. The brass bullets are crimped over tinned wire ends and fully soldered. I have found this is a very robust wiring system. I have used other types of clear plastic insulated wire connections, but the heat & oil tends to deform the covers and makes disassembly/reassembly difficult.

Sleeving is heat shrink throughout, except at the steering neck where a flexible vinyl cover is used. The connections at the rear of the bike are under the battery, where the starter solenoid goes. I install a peice of rubber sheet below the battery to sheild the wires from the dirt/grime produced by the nearby chain. The wires are long enough to access from the horn side. The rest are all housed in the headlamp shell. I have the 6 1/2" Miller shell and everything fits in there very nicely, including the flasher unit on velcro.

I ran black earth wires to every component, avoiding the issues of frame/forks/fender earth continuity. As I also have freshly painted handlebars, I ran secondary earth wires directly to the magneto kill and the starter button.

The LED indicators for turn signals and high beam are stand 12V 4mm LED's available in bulk on line. I carefully drilled the back of ammeter housing (after disassembly of the ammeter) and super glued the LED's in place. Green for turn signals and blue for high beam. The opaque white ammeter shell transmits the colours nicely, without having to have secondary indicator lamps.

The handlebar switch has horn, high/low beam/turn signals. I chose a unit that has heavier gauge wire meaning no relays are required. In my previous version, I had chosen a light weight switch with latching high beam and tiny wires for the horn/lights etc - requiring the use of relays. I found this unit has sufficiently sized wires and also an actual high-low beam switch.

The wiring was completed over 2 nights, once I had organized the supplies and components.

I did up the wiring chart before hand and modified as required during assembly - it is an invaluable tool in making the job as simple as possible. I printed on 2no. 11x17 sheets in colour and glued it to a peice of cardboard for use during the job.
 

Attachments

  • VIN WIRE JB v3 TDF98 Alton-Grossert.pdf
    178.3 KB · Views: 58

Gene Nehring

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
David D has discussed previously that he gave rhode island wiring an original Miller Vincent loom to make reproductions.

I can’t emphasise enough how good these are and the instructions for installation are excellent. I would highly, highly recommended their products. Pricing is very fair as well.
 
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