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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Poorish compression and piston leak by
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<blockquote data-quote="Big Sid" data-source="post: 43241" data-attributes="member: 2781"><p>Rings can be seated in minutes if the assembly is done towards that end . Modern pistons need 4 thou skirt clearance , no less and this measured half way or more down the bore , not near the top . The finish on the bore needs the correct tooth to do what's needed . The ring stack is kept dry of oil , a few drops rubbed onto the skirt . A little on the lower fourth of the barrel surface , NONE on the upper half of the bore , this clean but dry . Thus the dry rings ride over a dry liner over the upper distance . This seats the rings in the initial few strokes as they burnish against the dry surface . A few quick but short wrist blips within a few seconds after the initial firing does the trick . RIGHT NOW . </p><p> No fear because the oil flushes up over everything within moments . </p><p> A good car oil , Texaco Havoline is one , just regular , not super duper stuff hastens the entire break in proceidure , then drain it and replace with the better stuff , gets the iron swarf out of there came off the rings and cylinder walls . </p><p> The initial break in miles use short hard bursts over a brief hard pull and then back off to suck up oil into the bore , cool it , then repeat that a few times as you raise the road speed . This burst has cylinder pressure get behind the upper two rings forcing them out against the walls . Then backing off flushes the lot , cooling it . </p><p> Done properly this method has all ring seating and pistons bedded in under 50 miles . Even less . Then you can venture in stages up among higher speeds always backing off for a mo to cool er down . </p><p> We still use Racing Valvoline in a quick motor . Sid .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Big Sid, post: 43241, member: 2781"] Rings can be seated in minutes if the assembly is done towards that end . Modern pistons need 4 thou skirt clearance , no less and this measured half way or more down the bore , not near the top . The finish on the bore needs the correct tooth to do what's needed . The ring stack is kept dry of oil , a few drops rubbed onto the skirt . A little on the lower fourth of the barrel surface , NONE on the upper half of the bore , this clean but dry . Thus the dry rings ride over a dry liner over the upper distance . This seats the rings in the initial few strokes as they burnish against the dry surface . A few quick but short wrist blips within a few seconds after the initial firing does the trick . RIGHT NOW . No fear because the oil flushes up over everything within moments . A good car oil , Texaco Havoline is one , just regular , not super duper stuff hastens the entire break in proceidure , then drain it and replace with the better stuff , gets the iron swarf out of there came off the rings and cylinder walls . The initial break in miles use short hard bursts over a brief hard pull and then back off to suck up oil into the bore , cool it , then repeat that a few times as you raise the road speed . This burst has cylinder pressure get behind the upper two rings forcing them out against the walls . Then backing off flushes the lot , cooling it . Done properly this method has all ring seating and pistons bedded in under 50 miles . Even less . Then you can venture in stages up among higher speeds always backing off for a mo to cool er down . We still use Racing Valvoline in a quick motor . Sid . [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Poorish compression and piston leak by
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