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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
poor quality repop silencers
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<blockquote data-quote="Gary Gittleson" data-source="post: 109488" data-attributes="member: 3625"><p>Good news! Bill Thomas hit the nail on the head. Yes, the angle of the flange is critical. The rear flange, the one that Armour's made, was off. After reading Bill's comment, I examined that carefully and could see that the gasket in the rear cylinder was only being touched on the outer edge. The pipe was being forced inward by the nut. With both pipes connected, when I was able with much difficulty, to get the rear nut threaded in the rear pipe was fouling the head under the valve adjuster cap. I think I saw someone on this thread mention trimming the head at this spot. I didn't want to do that! </p><p></p><p>So it was back to hammering, filing and working the edges of the flange with a Dremel. After three or four sessions, the thing went together. The silencer and pipe brackets lined up with the bolt holes. The pipes no longer foul the engine, albeit with just enough clearance. </p><p></p><p>It all makes sense, once I think about it. A millimeter (I mean .039 inches, this is the USA) of difference on the rim of the flange will be greatly magnified at the end of the pipes. Still, it's amazing how far off it all was, in all sorts of directions for a very small change at the flange.</p><p></p><p>So I can say that with only small reservations that I can recommend Armours, at least for the stainless setup. I took a 40 mile ride so far with it. Despite the straight-through silencer, the exhaust note is somewhat deeper in tone but not annoyingly loud at all. The two down pipes do have the expected golden hue, just down to the Y and not beyond. </p><p></p><p>Thank you all for your suggestions. I admit to getting panicky at the thought of laying up the bike for a few weeks to get this all sorted out.</p><p></p><p>Gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Gary Gittleson, post: 109488, member: 3625"] Good news! Bill Thomas hit the nail on the head. Yes, the angle of the flange is critical. The rear flange, the one that Armour's made, was off. After reading Bill's comment, I examined that carefully and could see that the gasket in the rear cylinder was only being touched on the outer edge. The pipe was being forced inward by the nut. With both pipes connected, when I was able with much difficulty, to get the rear nut threaded in the rear pipe was fouling the head under the valve adjuster cap. I think I saw someone on this thread mention trimming the head at this spot. I didn't want to do that! So it was back to hammering, filing and working the edges of the flange with a Dremel. After three or four sessions, the thing went together. The silencer and pipe brackets lined up with the bolt holes. The pipes no longer foul the engine, albeit with just enough clearance. It all makes sense, once I think about it. A millimeter (I mean .039 inches, this is the USA) of difference on the rim of the flange will be greatly magnified at the end of the pipes. Still, it's amazing how far off it all was, in all sorts of directions for a very small change at the flange. So I can say that with only small reservations that I can recommend Armours, at least for the stainless setup. I took a 40 mile ride so far with it. Despite the straight-through silencer, the exhaust note is somewhat deeper in tone but not annoyingly loud at all. The two down pipes do have the expected golden hue, just down to the Y and not beyond. Thank you all for your suggestions. I admit to getting panicky at the thought of laying up the bike for a few weeks to get this all sorted out. Gary [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
poor quality repop silencers
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