Oil Change

[bmetcalf]

The original way to drain the oil was to loosen the A22 banjo bolt at the bottom of the return oil line. Does your A22 have the setscrew in it that can be removed without loosening the main banjo bolt; they are pretty handy and recommended in Know Thy Beast? Also, Neal Videan advertises rubber bonded seals (p/n A27, etc.) in MPH or you can get Stat-o-Seals from here http://www.holley.com/EarlsCatalog/Catalog.asp?pageNumber=97 (page 98)

 

[b'knighted]

Its good that you're getting to grips with it.
The club shop stocks A22SS/DRAIN which is the short banjo bolt with built in drain screw mentioned by Bruce. The metal/ rubber sealing washers are known as 1/4BSP Dowty washers in the UK and I buy mine from the local farm shop. John Deere, and other, tractors use them on their hydraulic lines. You'll need to change the oil filter as well as the oil.

 

[bmetcalf]

Now that Ian has mentioned the filter, put it in a can and fill the can with oil to fully impregnate the filter. Then, before screwing in the banjo bolt that goes into the filter chamber, squirt oil in until it runs out. I put a 1x4 under the right leg of the rear stand to tip the bike a bit to maximize the oil squirted in, this minimizes the time that the rockers and cams wait for oil to reach them from the pump. Even that delay can be mitigated by squirting oil down the pushrod tubes before startup.

 

[Ducdude]

Now that Ian has mentioned the filter, put it in a can and fill the can with oil to fully impregnate the filter. Then, before screwing in the banjo bolt that goes into the filter chamber, squirt oil in until it runs out. I put a 1x4 under the right leg of the rear stand to tip the bike a bit to maximize the oil squirted in, this minimizes the time that the rockers and cams wait for oil to reach them from the pump. Even that delay can be mitigated by squirting oil down the pushrod tubes before startup.

Look at that Kurt! Bruce and I told you almost exactly the same data on oil changes in two completely separate communications...! In Vincent lore that means it MUST be true..LOL

Cheers,
Eric

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Now that Ian has mentioned the filter, put it in a can and fill the can with oil to fully impregnate the filter. Then, before screwing in the banjo bolt that goes into the filter chamber, squirt oil in until it runs out. I put a 1x4 under the right leg of the rear stand to tip the bike a bit to maximize the oil squirted in, this minimizes the time that the rockers and cams wait for oil to reach them from the pump. Even that delay can be mitigated by squirting oil down the pushrod tubes before startup.

Or you can get a you beaut paper element oil filter (for twins or singles) from Neil Videan.

 

[BigEd]

You will also find an additional engine drain point on the crankcase left hand side under the primary drive case. Remove the A26 brass plug to get rid of oil in the bottom of the crankcases.
Access to the oil filter is gained by removing the magneto cover. You will find a large brass plug, PR4A. You will probably need a large socket or box spanner to remove this if it has not been moved in a while. A little non setting compound on the thread when replacing is useful.
The original filter was felt. Modern cartridge paper filters are available which you may find more convenient.
Another tip regarding oil is to run the engine for a minute or two before checking the oil level in the tank. Many, including myself , have topped up the oil and then had an overflow over the top of the engine when oil in the sump was returned to the tank.

Its good that you're getting to grips with it.
The club shop stocks A22SS/DRAIN which is the short banjo bolt with built in drain screw mentioned by Bruce. The metal/ rubber sealing washers are known as 1/4BSP Dowty washers in the UK and I buy mine from the local farm shop. John Deere, and other, tractors use them on their hydraulic lines. You'll need to change the oil filter as well as the oil.

 

[clevtrev]

Why worry about a filter, approx 90 of the oil bypasses the filter, that`s why when I pull a big end apart, it`s full of crud. Remember, that`s immediately after the filter.

 

[timetraveller]

I'm with clevtrev on this. Over the years I have taken apart many flywheel assemblies both for myself and for other people (a hobby not a business). In every case the failure of the big end has been due to the annular groove in the timing end of the crankpin being filled solid with dirt centrifuged out of the oil. This has built up until oil could no longer flow into the crank pin and hence the failure. The crank pins with larger diameter ends where they enter the flywheels, originally developed for racing to give more stiffness, do not have this groove. Instead they have to have the entrance for the oil gallery in the crankpin lined up with the hole in the timing side flywheel and there is nowhere for the dirt to go other than straight through to the big end bearing. Modern filters, provided that they are free flow, are a much better item.

 

[1660bob]

Is this bypass rate a downside to the old felt filters?. I am about to fit one of the VOC paper element type that i have had in storage for some time now,made in USA, looks like a decent item.
Surely with all the moans and groans about the Vincent pump delivering so little, such a filter (assuming cleanliness via frequent changes) should cope OK without lifting the by-bass off its seat? How good or poor is the by-pass valve?-do these "leak" to any extent in normal operation? Bob.