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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Norvin out of Dominator 88
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<blockquote data-quote="Little Honda" data-source="post: 112646" data-attributes="member: 667"><p>From my personal point of view, the reason for the Norvin idea is very simple: The best engine in the best frame - end of discussion. If it is done well - like Ernst Hegeler´s version - it is a much more comfortable bike to ride,</p><p>than any other original Vincent twin. The frame´s nickname "featherbed" relates to its comfort, not to its</p><p>racing quality, which is also there. Regarding rumors about being "head heavy", " higher centre of gravity",</p><p>"heavy steerability" , let me tell you, they are all caused by wrong engineering. The major complaint about</p><p>being head-heavy is simply not true. I have weighed mine, getting 204kgs, fuel tank 2/3 full, of which 47%</p><p>were front weight and 53% rear weight. Besides, total being some 4 kgs lighter, than a standard Rapide!</p><p>With me on my Norvin, the weight distribution is app. opposite, ie, 43% front and 57% rear, depending on</p><p>seating position. I cannot complain in any way, whatsoever, about my Norvin´s roadholding. There is no</p><p>steering damper, and I have never experienced the slightest wobble, not even a thought of it.</p><p>To get an impression of these measurements, I weighed my 650cc HONDA Hawk (RC31) in the same way, which is one of the best bikes to ride on country roads : Believe it, or not: 47% front, 53%rear, total 185kgs</p><p>ready to ride, 60 hp. Wheelbase: 1445mm, Norvin: 1417mm !</p><p>The Hawk is of course, much easier to ride than my Norvin, but because of 20kgs less weight, much better</p><p>brakes and more modern tyres/ sizes and easier performance, possibly, because using a flywheel with 2</p><p>big ends. The weakest point (though being one of the best in its days) on the Norvin is the roadholder forks.</p><p>It may be good at a 120kgs - Manx Norton, but not in comparison with modern forks, after having been fitted with harder springs for being part of a Norvin. I decided to live with it, having it optimized by MAXTON, because I want to have correct historic looks of my Norvin.</p><p>I think, if you order a replica featherbed from Unity for use in a NORVIN build, it will be 1 in longer, than</p><p>std., for easy fit of the Vincent twin engine. I am using an unaltered wideline frame of an Atlas99. I did not</p><p>alter my exhaust piping, nor did I cut rear head fins. It is possible, but not easy! I also did not flatten my</p><p>frame downtubes to let the chain pass by. I used a 5/8"x1/4" chain instead the std. one. I am running 19"</p><p>front and rear, using Dunlop TT100´s.</p><p>And, if you want to reduce weight any further on your Norvin, use a real Manx race frame, you will arrive</p><p>at below 200kgs for your 1000cc bike, which is still very competetive, today!</p><p>Ref. registry in Germany: Not possible without previous registration with docs. So, no replica frames.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Little Honda, post: 112646, member: 667"] From my personal point of view, the reason for the Norvin idea is very simple: The best engine in the best frame - end of discussion. If it is done well - like Ernst Hegeler´s version - it is a much more comfortable bike to ride, than any other original Vincent twin. The frame´s nickname "featherbed" relates to its comfort, not to its racing quality, which is also there. Regarding rumors about being "head heavy", " higher centre of gravity", "heavy steerability" , let me tell you, they are all caused by wrong engineering. The major complaint about being head-heavy is simply not true. I have weighed mine, getting 204kgs, fuel tank 2/3 full, of which 47% were front weight and 53% rear weight. Besides, total being some 4 kgs lighter, than a standard Rapide! With me on my Norvin, the weight distribution is app. opposite, ie, 43% front and 57% rear, depending on seating position. I cannot complain in any way, whatsoever, about my Norvin´s roadholding. There is no steering damper, and I have never experienced the slightest wobble, not even a thought of it. To get an impression of these measurements, I weighed my 650cc HONDA Hawk (RC31) in the same way, which is one of the best bikes to ride on country roads : Believe it, or not: 47% front, 53%rear, total 185kgs ready to ride, 60 hp. Wheelbase: 1445mm, Norvin: 1417mm ! The Hawk is of course, much easier to ride than my Norvin, but because of 20kgs less weight, much better brakes and more modern tyres/ sizes and easier performance, possibly, because using a flywheel with 2 big ends. The weakest point (though being one of the best in its days) on the Norvin is the roadholder forks. It may be good at a 120kgs - Manx Norton, but not in comparison with modern forks, after having been fitted with harder springs for being part of a Norvin. I decided to live with it, having it optimized by MAXTON, because I want to have correct historic looks of my Norvin. I think, if you order a replica featherbed from Unity for use in a NORVIN build, it will be 1 in longer, than std., for easy fit of the Vincent twin engine. I am using an unaltered wideline frame of an Atlas99. I did not alter my exhaust piping, nor did I cut rear head fins. It is possible, but not easy! I also did not flatten my frame downtubes to let the chain pass by. I used a 5/8"x1/4" chain instead the std. one. I am running 19" front and rear, using Dunlop TT100´s. And, if you want to reduce weight any further on your Norvin, use a real Manx race frame, you will arrive at below 200kgs for your 1000cc bike, which is still very competetive, today! Ref. registry in Germany: Not possible without previous registration with docs. So, no replica frames. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Norvin out of Dominator 88
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