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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Motor Oil - Fossil or Synthetic
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<blockquote data-quote="John Appleton" data-source="post: 18692" data-attributes="member: 760"><p>Phil, I just know I am going to regret this but.....oh well. This is , or was, to a certain extent true but had nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil. All oils have a package of additives mixed in with a base oil to produce the products that we buy. Broadly speaking these base oils fall into one of three categories. Category 1 is a refined crude, Category 2 is a bit more refined. Category 3 is one of the "synthetic" or designer bases. The additives which give the various characteristics are of a volatile nature, and gradually burn off causing our super oil to gradually revert to the base oil. It will no longer be 20/50, but may well come down to , for example, 25/30. More importantly for those engines having flat cam followers is the fact that, as these additives disappear so does the amount of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDPP) in circulation. Zinc phosphate is the stuff that prevents metal to metal contact when two componants put a high shear load on the oil.</p><p>Prolonged use of an oil does however improve its friction reducing characteristics, but there is , or was, a field of thought that said putting it through rollers would undo this good work by reducing the length of the previously lengthened molecular structure. So where does all this twaddle leave us.</p><p>Thin oils are known to have better lubrication qualities, as an oil, but if we go to a super thin oil as used in modern cars, then we know some of them will have a reduced ZDPP content as it has a detrimental effect on catalytic converters.</p><p>If you wish to be really pedantic I suppose you should be looking for a 10/40 oil, of SG rating and having something in the region of :- calcium 0.2% phosphorous 0.110% zinc 0.112 % sodium 0.050% , and change it at 3000 mile intervals.</p><p> </p><p>On the other hand you could always do what the rest of us do and use what you know works, or ask somebody who really knows what they are talking about, cos I am as confused as the rest of you.</p><p> </p><p>Phew, its beer o'clock---I'm off John</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John Appleton, post: 18692, member: 760"] Phil, I just know I am going to regret this but.....oh well. This is , or was, to a certain extent true but had nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil. All oils have a package of additives mixed in with a base oil to produce the products that we buy. Broadly speaking these base oils fall into one of three categories. Category 1 is a refined crude, Category 2 is a bit more refined. Category 3 is one of the "synthetic" or designer bases. The additives which give the various characteristics are of a volatile nature, and gradually burn off causing our super oil to gradually revert to the base oil. It will no longer be 20/50, but may well come down to , for example, 25/30. More importantly for those engines having flat cam followers is the fact that, as these additives disappear so does the amount of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDPP) in circulation. Zinc phosphate is the stuff that prevents metal to metal contact when two componants put a high shear load on the oil. Prolonged use of an oil does however improve its friction reducing characteristics, but there is , or was, a field of thought that said putting it through rollers would undo this good work by reducing the length of the previously lengthened molecular structure. So where does all this twaddle leave us. Thin oils are known to have better lubrication qualities, as an oil, but if we go to a super thin oil as used in modern cars, then we know some of them will have a reduced ZDPP content as it has a detrimental effect on catalytic converters. If you wish to be really pedantic I suppose you should be looking for a 10/40 oil, of SG rating and having something in the region of :- calcium 0.2% phosphorous 0.110% zinc 0.112 % sodium 0.050% , and change it at 3000 mile intervals. On the other hand you could always do what the rest of us do and use what you know works, or ask somebody who really knows what they are talking about, cos I am as confused as the rest of you. Phew, its beer o'clock---I'm off John [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Motor Oil - Fossil or Synthetic
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