The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Motor Oil - Fossil or Synthetic
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="John Appleton" data-source="post: 18647" data-attributes="member: 760"><p>Howard, you are exactly right! When an oil manufacture gives a specification of 40 as a viscosity, this is measured at working temperature,and how many of our bikes get the oil to that happy situation, but is just what a rattly old engine requires at times-BUT, at start up this old rattler has to rely on oil being fed down a long, cold tube from a very effectively air cooled tank, squeeze it through a felt or paper filter, force it through small feed holes into big ends, cam spindles and rocker feeds, and finally rely on enough of it running back through the crank case scavenge hole to keep the return pump happy. Couple this with the fact that heaviest engine wear takes place during cold start up due to surface drag, and a 10 weight oil would be a much better option, and this makes a 10/40 an ideal choice. You can also buy it anywhere.</p><p> </p><p>There used to be an advertising slogan for paint that read "say dulux to your decorator." I think a similar word should be said to an oil rep that says an oil type is "too slippery", or in other words "too lubricatey". I think the point he may have been trying to make was that a new engine will naturally be used under light throttle settings, and with a super oil installed, this can lead to bore glaze, but I have never experienced this on any of our Vincent engines.</p><p>On a slightly different subject, but allied to bore glazing, I have read with interest a recent thread regarding the "lapping in" of poorly finished piston rings. It has been suggested that working them up and down the bore with a lapping compound might be a good idea. It isn't. Any engine machinist worth his salt will ensure that his honing marks left in the bore will be at a specified angle, to ensure that "shelves" are formed for oil to sit on to assist ring sealing and lubrication during start up. This angle is usually set somewhere around the 40 degree mark. Too flat and excess oil is retained. Too steep and the oil runs off or is scraped off and will lead to poor sealing and excess bore wear. Lapping a poorly fitting ring into this bore effectivly undoes a lot of your machinists work,and if any of our mechanics should resort to this action, he would soon be after another job!!</p><p> </p><p>John</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John Appleton, post: 18647, member: 760"] Howard, you are exactly right! When an oil manufacture gives a specification of 40 as a viscosity, this is measured at working temperature,and how many of our bikes get the oil to that happy situation, but is just what a rattly old engine requires at times-BUT, at start up this old rattler has to rely on oil being fed down a long, cold tube from a very effectively air cooled tank, squeeze it through a felt or paper filter, force it through small feed holes into big ends, cam spindles and rocker feeds, and finally rely on enough of it running back through the crank case scavenge hole to keep the return pump happy. Couple this with the fact that heaviest engine wear takes place during cold start up due to surface drag, and a 10 weight oil would be a much better option, and this makes a 10/40 an ideal choice. You can also buy it anywhere. There used to be an advertising slogan for paint that read "say dulux to your decorator." I think a similar word should be said to an oil rep that says an oil type is "too slippery", or in other words "too lubricatey". I think the point he may have been trying to make was that a new engine will naturally be used under light throttle settings, and with a super oil installed, this can lead to bore glaze, but I have never experienced this on any of our Vincent engines. On a slightly different subject, but allied to bore glazing, I have read with interest a recent thread regarding the "lapping in" of poorly finished piston rings. It has been suggested that working them up and down the bore with a lapping compound might be a good idea. It isn't. Any engine machinist worth his salt will ensure that his honing marks left in the bore will be at a specified angle, to ensure that "shelves" are formed for oil to sit on to assist ring sealing and lubrication during start up. This angle is usually set somewhere around the 40 degree mark. Too flat and excess oil is retained. Too steep and the oil runs off or is scraped off and will lead to poor sealing and excess bore wear. Lapping a poorly fitting ring into this bore effectivly undoes a lot of your machinists work,and if any of our mechanics should resort to this action, he would soon be after another job!! John [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Motor Oil - Fossil or Synthetic
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top