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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 95287" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>This business about differences between bikes has shown itself up with two items during this exercise of getting made and fitting new steering heads. These two differences show them selves up as whether or not one has to remove material from behind and under the top link and the movement of the front wheel with respect to the front of the engine, mudguard clearance etc. When John Emmanuel first allowed me to get copies made of the steering head he had developed he insisted that for safety reasons I put something in the instructions concerning the clearance between the front mudguard and the engine and the possibility of trapping the control cables. When John had fitted his, he had to make a smaller diameter mudguard with new supports and carefully position the cables and apply movement restriction. I inserted the relevant cautions into the instruction sheets but so far I know of only two people who have had problems with mudguard to engine clearance, Everyone else who has given me feedback has not had this problem. I do doubt that this is only a matter of whether or not one has inserted the large washer below the lower bearing in the steering head or not. Greg has warned us that failure to insert that can result in changes in the steering geometry but this washer is only about 20 thou thick. ( Don't have one to measure at the moment.) I have questioned people who have had this problem about whether they are sure that they have standard top links etc and so far I have no idea what causes this difference.</p><p>The other difference is whether one needs to remove material from the top link or not. I emphasise in the instructions that one should use long eyebolts and as far as I know everyone had done that. However, the difference between Vibrac's bike where he did not need to remove any material, and my own where I had to remove several millimetres is not a matter of thous. It approaches 5 - 6 mm at that point and that is more than is explicable by differences in the diameter of the front 'tube' of the top link. I have never tried to measure the lengths between top and bottom bearings in the steering head but that distance cannot vary by many millimetres or the stems of the steering heads would be either loose or too tight for the top nut to tighten up. It does not seem practical to get two bike with very different behaviour side by side to measure everything so the best that I can say is that so far everyone has manage to fit the new steering heads and most have not had to modify the mudguard etc. Feedback on this open Forum is the best way to exchange experience and ideas.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 95287, member: 456"] This business about differences between bikes has shown itself up with two items during this exercise of getting made and fitting new steering heads. These two differences show them selves up as whether or not one has to remove material from behind and under the top link and the movement of the front wheel with respect to the front of the engine, mudguard clearance etc. When John Emmanuel first allowed me to get copies made of the steering head he had developed he insisted that for safety reasons I put something in the instructions concerning the clearance between the front mudguard and the engine and the possibility of trapping the control cables. When John had fitted his, he had to make a smaller diameter mudguard with new supports and carefully position the cables and apply movement restriction. I inserted the relevant cautions into the instruction sheets but so far I know of only two people who have had problems with mudguard to engine clearance, Everyone else who has given me feedback has not had this problem. I do doubt that this is only a matter of whether or not one has inserted the large washer below the lower bearing in the steering head or not. Greg has warned us that failure to insert that can result in changes in the steering geometry but this washer is only about 20 thou thick. ( Don't have one to measure at the moment.) I have questioned people who have had this problem about whether they are sure that they have standard top links etc and so far I have no idea what causes this difference. The other difference is whether one needs to remove material from the top link or not. I emphasise in the instructions that one should use long eyebolts and as far as I know everyone had done that. However, the difference between Vibrac's bike where he did not need to remove any material, and my own where I had to remove several millimetres is not a matter of thous. It approaches 5 - 6 mm at that point and that is more than is explicable by differences in the diameter of the front 'tube' of the top link. I have never tried to measure the lengths between top and bottom bearings in the steering head but that distance cannot vary by many millimetres or the stems of the steering heads would be either loose or too tight for the top nut to tighten up. It does not seem practical to get two bike with very different behaviour side by side to measure everything so the best that I can say is that so far everyone has manage to fit the new steering heads and most have not had to modify the mudguard etc. Feedback on this open Forum is the best way to exchange experience and ideas. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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