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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 75833" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>In all three instances I have installed the kit, firstly on the racer, which had a very many mods to the front end other than just the changing of the stem, I have gone to the effort of attaching the shocker with long and short eye bolts, then moved the forks fully up and down as far as they will go using my strength, but not to the point of compressing the bumper rubber inside the shock absorber. By the scribe lines drawn on paper using a texter pen in the hole for the wheel axle on both the racer and my road going Rapide, the rearward travel was only about 15 mm on the racer and perhaps a little more on the road bike. This would only change and not by much, if the steering head angle were different, and /or if the shocker allowed more upward travel. It is possible I guess that John's design is slightly different to yours, but only you would know that. But my understanding was that the ones we have, are based on the lower spindle being removed from its original location in the original stem, and the lower link simply pivoted downward by the desired amount thus causing the link center to also move slightly aft, and because there is no eccentric anymore, the change alters the trail by nothing. It is also clear that both the upper and lower links are now almost exactly parallel to one another. Remember John Renwick was also aware of this issue, but his fix was to drill another 9/16 hole further up the fork leg, and although no one is going to carry out that mod, it clearly would have given him a similar result. Whatever we end up with in the way of springs and shocker units, the main aim is to alter the action and therefore the Axle path so as to duplicate that of the Brampton forks, and you don't see any of them with the links pointed downward. I feel that some may think that the travel available will be some huge full up and downward sweep of the links, but this is simply not possible. In reality the travel is probably more like 45 degrees at best. The fork action needs to be more like telelscopics, where the bike dives in the front under braking and the bike rises and falls on the front as you open and close the throttle. I rode a series "D" Rapide yesterday with what I felt was quite a soft front end, and I deliberately tried accelerating up to speed and hitting the front brakes quite hard to see what the front end did. It basically ceased to function, that is, it was almost locked up, and only very occasionally did I see the upper link move slightly over the bumps in the road. I know all three bikes with the conversion I have carried out so far, do not act in this way at all.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 75833, member: 597"] In all three instances I have installed the kit, firstly on the racer, which had a very many mods to the front end other than just the changing of the stem, I have gone to the effort of attaching the shocker with long and short eye bolts, then moved the forks fully up and down as far as they will go using my strength, but not to the point of compressing the bumper rubber inside the shock absorber. By the scribe lines drawn on paper using a texter pen in the hole for the wheel axle on both the racer and my road going Rapide, the rearward travel was only about 15 mm on the racer and perhaps a little more on the road bike. This would only change and not by much, if the steering head angle were different, and /or if the shocker allowed more upward travel. It is possible I guess that John's design is slightly different to yours, but only you would know that. But my understanding was that the ones we have, are based on the lower spindle being removed from its original location in the original stem, and the lower link simply pivoted downward by the desired amount thus causing the link center to also move slightly aft, and because there is no eccentric anymore, the change alters the trail by nothing. It is also clear that both the upper and lower links are now almost exactly parallel to one another. Remember John Renwick was also aware of this issue, but his fix was to drill another 9/16 hole further up the fork leg, and although no one is going to carry out that mod, it clearly would have given him a similar result. Whatever we end up with in the way of springs and shocker units, the main aim is to alter the action and therefore the Axle path so as to duplicate that of the Brampton forks, and you don't see any of them with the links pointed downward. I feel that some may think that the travel available will be some huge full up and downward sweep of the links, but this is simply not possible. In reality the travel is probably more like 45 degrees at best. The fork action needs to be more like telelscopics, where the bike dives in the front under braking and the bike rises and falls on the front as you open and close the throttle. I rode a series "D" Rapide yesterday with what I felt was quite a soft front end, and I deliberately tried accelerating up to speed and hitting the front brakes quite hard to see what the front end did. It basically ceased to function, that is, it was almost locked up, and only very occasionally did I see the upper link move slightly over the bumps in the road. I know all three bikes with the conversion I have carried out so far, do not act in this way at all. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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