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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 118379" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>It is possible that the bearing pockets differ from bike to bike, perhaps from previous front end damage/repair. One way I have found this could be true is on some bikes the top stem nut bottoms out on the inside before the nut tightens enough to take all the adjustment in the head bearings. Generally i have removed the alloy damper housing and machined off a couple of mm from it, then reassemble and all is fine. The lower FF 36 washer is important too, if left out it will alter the geometry........But generally if the lower guard stay is too close to something it is usually because the stay is too high, the wrong one (too long) and also the difference in exhaust header pipes makes a big difference. I have had to alter several guard/stay set ups to allow the full compression of the suspension and this must be done with the shocker connected but the spring cases left off so you can lift the forks up against the shock absorber bump rubber. The lower the links are able to come down at the front, the greater the chance of the shocker like an AVO hitting the rear inside of the upper link, and this will be dictated by the lower shocker eye bolts in particular. Because the stock front end has long stiff springs, this lifts the front of the bike and gives plenty of travel without bottoming out........but this condition is what causes the bad geometry of the links as opposed to the Brampton forks........The girdraulic forks with less travel and the links in a safer position then replicates that of the Brampton's. It is only the spring cases that limit the travel on full compression when the new stem is installed. I take note of Vic's comments about friction, but the facts are that the load factors from the poor link geometry especially on the lower link are proof that at least the interference fit of these large bushes is overcome by high friction and they readily spin in the housing, thus the large eyes wear quite badly and are difficult to reclaim true and square to one another. there are endless ways to improve these bikes, some things you just have to try and see what happens.........To this date there is nothing negative about what has been done, just a bit of fine tuning here and there to suit each bike/rider combination.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 118379, member: 597"] It is possible that the bearing pockets differ from bike to bike, perhaps from previous front end damage/repair. One way I have found this could be true is on some bikes the top stem nut bottoms out on the inside before the nut tightens enough to take all the adjustment in the head bearings. Generally i have removed the alloy damper housing and machined off a couple of mm from it, then reassemble and all is fine. The lower FF 36 washer is important too, if left out it will alter the geometry........But generally if the lower guard stay is too close to something it is usually because the stay is too high, the wrong one (too long) and also the difference in exhaust header pipes makes a big difference. I have had to alter several guard/stay set ups to allow the full compression of the suspension and this must be done with the shocker connected but the spring cases left off so you can lift the forks up against the shock absorber bump rubber. The lower the links are able to come down at the front, the greater the chance of the shocker like an AVO hitting the rear inside of the upper link, and this will be dictated by the lower shocker eye bolts in particular. Because the stock front end has long stiff springs, this lifts the front of the bike and gives plenty of travel without bottoming out........but this condition is what causes the bad geometry of the links as opposed to the Brampton forks........The girdraulic forks with less travel and the links in a safer position then replicates that of the Brampton's. It is only the spring cases that limit the travel on full compression when the new stem is installed. I take note of Vic's comments about friction, but the facts are that the load factors from the poor link geometry especially on the lower link are proof that at least the interference fit of these large bushes is overcome by high friction and they readily spin in the housing, thus the large eyes wear quite badly and are difficult to reclaim true and square to one another. there are endless ways to improve these bikes, some things you just have to try and see what happens.........To this date there is nothing negative about what has been done, just a bit of fine tuning here and there to suit each bike/rider combination. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Modified Steering Stem
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