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General Chat (Vincent Related)
Looking for the owner of this bike seen at the North American International Rally
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<blockquote data-quote="Chris Launders" data-source="post: 175968" data-attributes="member: 2010"><p>Eddie</p><p>Surely the most critical thing is can you get a wheel and tyre in with the axle full forward AND have running clearance. </p><p></p><p>Are you using a Vincent wheel, I have and made up a new axle nut with a sleeve to fit the Velo arm and a top hat spacer for the T bar side.</p><p></p><p>Now Norton Roadholders, You have come to the right person as I've had a Norvin for over 30 years and an Atlas for 40 years and rebuilt many sets of forks when I worked in a British bikes only shop.</p><p></p><p>They basically come in three lengths, short (featherbed), long (pre featherbed and commando) and a third longer length for the AMC hybrids.</p><p></p><p>Also there are two widths, 7" centres for the pre Atlas and 7-3/8" for the Atlas period onwards, beware the sliders are different widths at the bottom to accommodate this.</p><p></p><p>My Atlas and Norvin sit at about 25" from the top of the steering head on the frame to the axle, Commando forks will be about 1.5" longer and the Hybrid another 2", by the way my Vincent sits at 28" from the top of he steering head to axle.</p><p></p><p>Be aware that many many 2nd hand Norton fork slides though looking perfect can be very worn internally where the bush on the stanchion bottom runs up and down, I have several scrap sliders because of this, the ones I tried on my latest project at half way travel you could move the bottom about 1/4" back and forwards, I think my Atlas ones have gone this way, rocking the bike back and forwards with the brake on they definitely clonk and you can see the deflection, and they had new stanchions and bushes etc 3.000 miles ago.</p><p></p><p>I use Commando progressive springs and 20w50w oil (they were designed way before fork oil came along). DO NOT use Manx springs, though progressive they are for a much lighter bike and the forks were even shorter than Short roadholders ( a friend has found this out, he has wondered for years why his Norvin bottoms out so easily, turns out he had Manx stanchions and external springs AND extensions on his damper rods (for some reason) and was left with about 1.5" of travel.</p><p></p><p>Hope some of the above is useful</p><p></p><p>Chris</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris Launders, post: 175968, member: 2010"] Eddie Surely the most critical thing is can you get a wheel and tyre in with the axle full forward AND have running clearance. Are you using a Vincent wheel, I have and made up a new axle nut with a sleeve to fit the Velo arm and a top hat spacer for the T bar side. Now Norton Roadholders, You have come to the right person as I've had a Norvin for over 30 years and an Atlas for 40 years and rebuilt many sets of forks when I worked in a British bikes only shop. They basically come in three lengths, short (featherbed), long (pre featherbed and commando) and a third longer length for the AMC hybrids. Also there are two widths, 7" centres for the pre Atlas and 7-3/8" for the Atlas period onwards, beware the sliders are different widths at the bottom to accommodate this. My Atlas and Norvin sit at about 25" from the top of the steering head on the frame to the axle, Commando forks will be about 1.5" longer and the Hybrid another 2", by the way my Vincent sits at 28" from the top of he steering head to axle. Be aware that many many 2nd hand Norton fork slides though looking perfect can be very worn internally where the bush on the stanchion bottom runs up and down, I have several scrap sliders because of this, the ones I tried on my latest project at half way travel you could move the bottom about 1/4" back and forwards, I think my Atlas ones have gone this way, rocking the bike back and forwards with the brake on they definitely clonk and you can see the deflection, and they had new stanchions and bushes etc 3.000 miles ago. I use Commando progressive springs and 20w50w oil (they were designed way before fork oil came along). DO NOT use Manx springs, though progressive they are for a much lighter bike and the forks were even shorter than Short roadholders ( a friend has found this out, he has wondered for years why his Norvin bottoms out so easily, turns out he had Manx stanchions and external springs AND extensions on his damper rods (for some reason) and was left with about 1.5" of travel. Hope some of the above is useful Chris [/QUOTE]
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Looking for the owner of this bike seen at the North American International Rally
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