The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Interesting big end...
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 99302" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>My rods are one piece, case hardened, ground and lapped after heat treatment. The mainshafts and crank webs are one piece as well, no Mills pin there and main roller bearings i.d. is 30 mm , 62 mm o.d. so crank cases were alu bushed for 62mm bearings, shrink fit of about 0.06mm undersize. That will grip the outer lipped races up to 120 degrees C - normal practice with old sixties BMWs and the like. </p><p> Trueing up the pressed up crank is one thing, got them all right at 0 to 0.02mm runout at the outer ends of the mains, set up in V-blocks. I do not accept ways of taking the lot between centres, that masks flaws I believe. </p><p> A friend had some desire for dynamically balancing cranks so I set up a machine and belt drive to the crank with acceleration sensors at each main shaft. The crank halves were statically balanced before with dummy weights, then a dummy crank pin and central dummy weight were loctited in to have a temporary "complete" crank assy. for runs on my machine for fine balancing up to almost 3000 rpm . There is an Australian low price software and electronics for balancing propellers etc. but in the end I could not get conclusive results from these calculations so I used some oscilloscope app for trial and error testing by adding small magnets in various places and seeing improvements. Anyway it pays - hopefully - to look into this closer. I did a few Yam SR 500 cranks as they come and found dramatic off-centre balance defects . These mass production crank webs are forged type and not machined all over like Vincent so there is a lot to be gained with these. </p><p> Allright, I am a retired toolmaker so can use my time for fooling around as long as I like so it will be quite some time to get any of the bikes on the road. </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p>Link to balancing app:</p><p><a href="http://www.dynexhobby.com/index.html" target="_blank">Dynex hobby</a></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23641[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23642[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 99302, member: 1493"] My rods are one piece, case hardened, ground and lapped after heat treatment. The mainshafts and crank webs are one piece as well, no Mills pin there and main roller bearings i.d. is 30 mm , 62 mm o.d. so crank cases were alu bushed for 62mm bearings, shrink fit of about 0.06mm undersize. That will grip the outer lipped races up to 120 degrees C - normal practice with old sixties BMWs and the like. Trueing up the pressed up crank is one thing, got them all right at 0 to 0.02mm runout at the outer ends of the mains, set up in V-blocks. I do not accept ways of taking the lot between centres, that masks flaws I believe. A friend had some desire for dynamically balancing cranks so I set up a machine and belt drive to the crank with acceleration sensors at each main shaft. The crank halves were statically balanced before with dummy weights, then a dummy crank pin and central dummy weight were loctited in to have a temporary "complete" crank assy. for runs on my machine for fine balancing up to almost 3000 rpm . There is an Australian low price software and electronics for balancing propellers etc. but in the end I could not get conclusive results from these calculations so I used some oscilloscope app for trial and error testing by adding small magnets in various places and seeing improvements. Anyway it pays - hopefully - to look into this closer. I did a few Yam SR 500 cranks as they come and found dramatic off-centre balance defects . These mass production crank webs are forged type and not machined all over like Vincent so there is a lot to be gained with these. Allright, I am a retired toolmaker so can use my time for fooling around as long as I like so it will be quite some time to get any of the bikes on the road. Vic Link to balancing app: [URL='http://www.dynexhobby.com/index.html']Dynex hobby[/URL] [ATTACH=full]23641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23642[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Vincent's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Interesting big end...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top