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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
identifying cams
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<blockquote data-quote="vibrac" data-source="post: 22777" data-attributes="member: 60"><p>Thats the joy of the EQUAL lift method you measure when the cams are most active ie on the flanks. My method is to pop the cam (one at a time) in at approximately the right place by eye (Who could trust a timing mark after 60 years? ) then again by feel I turn engine around TDC till the valve 'feel' equally lifted (changing the position is relatively easy) then you can put dial guage's to work,I dont use them now since I find myself unable to look at a moving clock and anti clock set of dials at the same time and be sure of what is what. So I find the best method is to measure the slack spring height of the inlet and exhaust valve (they rarely are the same) and add some washers on top of the 'low' ET37 to make the exactly the same height sticking them with a blob of Plasticine.</p><p>Then its a simple matter to start at say 20 deg before TDC and measure the inlet opening and the exhaust closing with a digital depth guage when they are spot on equal (perhaps somewhere in the .300-.400 thou range) have a look at the degree plate. if it reads 6 deg before TDC-(it never is first time) job done.except if you have a twin you need to repeat the job and I have no doubt compromise in your settings my notes say last time I got 8 on the rear and 5 on the front -my best effort ever.</p><p>This may sound a bit odd to those brought up on Tuning for speed but after all unless you are actually modifying your cam shafts the lift and duration are already set in hardened steel why bother with them. the feast is already made all you can do is move it. And the sweet moment to measure is when the inlet starts to breath AND the exhaust is running out of puff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vibrac, post: 22777, member: 60"] Thats the joy of the EQUAL lift method you measure when the cams are most active ie on the flanks. My method is to pop the cam (one at a time) in at approximately the right place by eye (Who could trust a timing mark after 60 years? ) then again by feel I turn engine around TDC till the valve 'feel' equally lifted (changing the position is relatively easy) then you can put dial guage's to work,I dont use them now since I find myself unable to look at a moving clock and anti clock set of dials at the same time and be sure of what is what. So I find the best method is to measure the slack spring height of the inlet and exhaust valve (they rarely are the same) and add some washers on top of the 'low' ET37 to make the exactly the same height sticking them with a blob of Plasticine. Then its a simple matter to start at say 20 deg before TDC and measure the inlet opening and the exhaust closing with a digital depth guage when they are spot on equal (perhaps somewhere in the .300-.400 thou range) have a look at the degree plate. if it reads 6 deg before TDC-(it never is first time) job done.except if you have a twin you need to repeat the job and I have no doubt compromise in your settings my notes say last time I got 8 on the rear and 5 on the front -my best effort ever. This may sound a bit odd to those brought up on Tuning for speed but after all unless you are actually modifying your cam shafts the lift and duration are already set in hardened steel why bother with them. the feast is already made all you can do is move it. And the sweet moment to measure is when the inlet starts to breath AND the exhaust is running out of puff [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
identifying cams
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