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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Girdraulic eccentric shimming method
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<blockquote data-quote="Simon Dinsdale" data-source="post: 136144" data-attributes="member: 58"><p>Spqreddie</p><p>You have exactly the same problem that I had on my Shadow which I mentioned in my post no.9.</p><p>Unlike like you I did the assembly of the forks on the bike and mine was also had a standard FF2 lower headstem. What I did was fit the FF1 head clip & FF2 headstem to the bike first. Then I fitted the lower link and excentrics which was already shimmed and then the top link. Finally I fitted the fork legs. When adjusting the spindles to achieve minimum end clearance so the FF10 cups would just rotate what I found on the top link is on one side the cup would jam up but the other side was still rattle loose. The same was seen on the bottom link but on opposite sides. My conclusion was something was putting side thrust and that the top link wasn't in alignment with the bottom link. I initially thought oh bugger the bottom link is bent as they do bend easily, so I dismantled the lot and measured everything.</p><p>What I found was the bottom link was perfectly in alignment as well as the headstem and head bearings and the problem was actually the top link.</p><p>The top link had not being machined equally on the area where FF6 bronze bushes pressed in. I cannot remember the exact figure but it was approx 30 to 40 though out side to side. Hopefully this photo will explain. Please note this photo is a <strong>good</strong> top link.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]40945[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Please ignore the parallax error due to the photograph but hopefully it will show what I'm talking about.</p><p>Dimension X and Y should be both the same. On mine X was plus and Y was minus but I cannot remember the exact figure. At first I thought the link was bent sideways but when placing another good link on top of the suspect one above the casting was perfect and it was clear the link had being machined with a sideways offset. I ended up making special FF6 bronze bushes with different flange thickness to bring it all back in alignment.</p><p>Now the easy way to spot this without measuring is if you look in the areas I have circled and look at the casting and how it has being machined then both sides should look the same. If you look at the photo Spqreddie posted in post 20 you can see the casting looks different side to side as it has been machined wrong and more of the cast web has been removed on one side to the other. I have highlighted this in the photo below. If he had assembled the forks on the bike in the normal sequence this wouldn't have been found until final setting up of the side clearance of the spindles. I'm not saying 100% that this is the problem but I would certainly start by looking at the top link.[ATTACH=full]40947[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Simon Dinsdale, post: 136144, member: 58"] Spqreddie You have exactly the same problem that I had on my Shadow which I mentioned in my post no.9. Unlike like you I did the assembly of the forks on the bike and mine was also had a standard FF2 lower headstem. What I did was fit the FF1 head clip & FF2 headstem to the bike first. Then I fitted the lower link and excentrics which was already shimmed and then the top link. Finally I fitted the fork legs. When adjusting the spindles to achieve minimum end clearance so the FF10 cups would just rotate what I found on the top link is on one side the cup would jam up but the other side was still rattle loose. The same was seen on the bottom link but on opposite sides. My conclusion was something was putting side thrust and that the top link wasn't in alignment with the bottom link. I initially thought oh bugger the bottom link is bent as they do bend easily, so I dismantled the lot and measured everything. What I found was the bottom link was perfectly in alignment as well as the headstem and head bearings and the problem was actually the top link. The top link had not being machined equally on the area where FF6 bronze bushes pressed in. I cannot remember the exact figure but it was approx 30 to 40 though out side to side. Hopefully this photo will explain. Please note this photo is a [B]good[/B] top link. [ATTACH type="full" alt="Img_4355.jpg"]40945[/ATTACH] Please ignore the parallax error due to the photograph but hopefully it will show what I'm talking about. Dimension X and Y should be both the same. On mine X was plus and Y was minus but I cannot remember the exact figure. At first I thought the link was bent sideways but when placing another good link on top of the suspect one above the casting was perfect and it was clear the link had being machined with a sideways offset. I ended up making special FF6 bronze bushes with different flange thickness to bring it all back in alignment. Now the easy way to spot this without measuring is if you look in the areas I have circled and look at the casting and how it has being machined then both sides should look the same. If you look at the photo Spqreddie posted in post 20 you can see the casting looks different side to side as it has been machined wrong and more of the cast web has been removed on one side to the other. I have highlighted this in the photo below. If he had assembled the forks on the bike in the normal sequence this wouldn't have been found until final setting up of the side clearance of the spindles. I'm not saying 100% that this is the problem but I would certainly start by looking at the top link.[ATTACH type="full" alt="top link error.jpg"]40947[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Girdraulic eccentric shimming method
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