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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Getting it running after 25 years?
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<blockquote data-quote="ogrilp400" data-source="post: 5619" data-attributes="member: 88"><p>G'day Warren,</p><p> You are probably going to get a dozen different opinions on this. I will look at it as if it was my bike and what I would do.</p><p> Take the petrol tank off and using some fresh fuel, slosh it around to wash out any stale residue. whilst doing this you can see if the fuel cap cork washer is sealing. </p><p> All the oil will have totally drained from the tank and from the engine's moving parts into the sump and chain case. Drain these along with the gearbox. Remove the oil filter and clean out the filter cavity. Replace with a new filter suitably soaked in oil. Undo the oil return from the underside of the oil tank and using an oil can, force oil back down the line. This will push oil down over the rockers. If you want to delve a little deeper, remove each valve spring cap and liberally souse the spring and upper guide area with afore mentioned oil can. Replace caps and return line. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a little oil about on top of the piston. Leave the plugs out for the time being. Remove the ATD cover at the front of the timing cover and fill the timing case and crankcase to the level of the opening. Replace the cover. Put the correct amount of oil in the chaincase and gearbox and a pint of oil in the tank. Now for some exercise. With the bike in gear, push it around the yard or up and down the street until oil appears at the return port of the oil tank filler. Do not start it!, there is way too much oil in the crankcase for that. This ensures that the bearings and timing gear are all soaked in oil. Drain the crankcase and chain case. Whilst they are draining you can sit back with a coffee or beer and admire your fine machine. Put another pint of oil in the oil tank. Being a 54 year I take it that it has coil ignition so now that you have the new battery and the plugs are out, check that you have spark at the plugs. The points in the distributor may need a light touch with a points file.</p><p> It may also pay to pull the wheels out and stuff some grease into the wheel bearings.</p><p> Replace the fuel tank and put a couple of gallons of fuel in and turn on the taps. At this point you will more that likely find that the taps leak and the carbys will have various leaks. These will have to be dismantled and attended to. </p><p> Now with the plugs back in its time for the start up. If your like most of us you will have to resort to the time honored method of utilising the kickstart. If your lucky you will have access to a set of rollers. After start up, immediately check that oil is flowing back to the tank. You may like to insert your finger over the return orifice to lightly restrict the return thereby forcing some extra oil down the rockers. Allow the engine to warm and then a short ride around the block will illustrate how the clutch action is and show up any other problems. If all is well, then a ride of ten or fifteen miles will warm everything nicely. Upon returning, immediately drain the oils whilst they are hot and allow to drain over night. Refill the next day with fresh oil and then out for some more miles. I would then replace the oils again after approximately 100 to 200 miles. Oil is cheap and by draining and replacing it, you are removing any contaminates. You don't have to use expensive oil for this process, supermarket stuff will do for these quick changes.</p><p> This start up process will not prevent any major mechanical calamities that were on the cards before the bike was layed up. Have you taken into account why the bike was layed up?, is it possible there were major problems back then?. If so then these should be dealt with first.</p><p></p><p> Phelps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ogrilp400, post: 5619, member: 88"] G'day Warren, You are probably going to get a dozen different opinions on this. I will look at it as if it was my bike and what I would do. Take the petrol tank off and using some fresh fuel, slosh it around to wash out any stale residue. whilst doing this you can see if the fuel cap cork washer is sealing. All the oil will have totally drained from the tank and from the engine's moving parts into the sump and chain case. Drain these along with the gearbox. Remove the oil filter and clean out the filter cavity. Replace with a new filter suitably soaked in oil. Undo the oil return from the underside of the oil tank and using an oil can, force oil back down the line. This will push oil down over the rockers. If you want to delve a little deeper, remove each valve spring cap and liberally souse the spring and upper guide area with afore mentioned oil can. Replace caps and return line. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a little oil about on top of the piston. Leave the plugs out for the time being. Remove the ATD cover at the front of the timing cover and fill the timing case and crankcase to the level of the opening. Replace the cover. Put the correct amount of oil in the chaincase and gearbox and a pint of oil in the tank. Now for some exercise. With the bike in gear, push it around the yard or up and down the street until oil appears at the return port of the oil tank filler. Do not start it!, there is way too much oil in the crankcase for that. This ensures that the bearings and timing gear are all soaked in oil. Drain the crankcase and chain case. Whilst they are draining you can sit back with a coffee or beer and admire your fine machine. Put another pint of oil in the oil tank. Being a 54 year I take it that it has coil ignition so now that you have the new battery and the plugs are out, check that you have spark at the plugs. The points in the distributor may need a light touch with a points file. It may also pay to pull the wheels out and stuff some grease into the wheel bearings. Replace the fuel tank and put a couple of gallons of fuel in and turn on the taps. At this point you will more that likely find that the taps leak and the carbys will have various leaks. These will have to be dismantled and attended to. Now with the plugs back in its time for the start up. If your like most of us you will have to resort to the time honored method of utilising the kickstart. If your lucky you will have access to a set of rollers. After start up, immediately check that oil is flowing back to the tank. You may like to insert your finger over the return orifice to lightly restrict the return thereby forcing some extra oil down the rockers. Allow the engine to warm and then a short ride around the block will illustrate how the clutch action is and show up any other problems. If all is well, then a ride of ten or fifteen miles will warm everything nicely. Upon returning, immediately drain the oils whilst they are hot and allow to drain over night. Refill the next day with fresh oil and then out for some more miles. I would then replace the oils again after approximately 100 to 200 miles. Oil is cheap and by draining and replacing it, you are removing any contaminates. You don't have to use expensive oil for this process, supermarket stuff will do for these quick changes. This start up process will not prevent any major mechanical calamities that were on the cards before the bike was layed up. Have you taken into account why the bike was layed up?, is it possible there were major problems back then?. If so then these should be dealt with first. Phelps. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Getting it running after 25 years?
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