The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Gearboxes.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Don Morris" data-source="post: 1797" data-attributes="member: 4564"><p>Robert</p><p> </p><p>I have'nt been able to add any information on the Forks, but as you have the box to pieces and mentioned studs this reminded me of some of my problems with an A box.</p><p> </p><p>A common mod is to fit the studs with 1/4 Whit, in the Alloy, and make the outer threads 1/4 BSF, for the nuts. This gives a better clamping force and less chance of the nut working loose. The standard is 1/4 Whit each end. Also make the studs as long as possible, in the alloy, tapping the holes if necessary. This makes the thread longer than normal and enables you to pick up on good threads.</p><p> </p><p>I found it possible to increase to 5/16 two of the studs that hold the inner case of the gearchange/kickstart compartment to the gearcase proper. This helps to locate them together, and is not seen from the outside. Mine was originally rocking and fretting the mating surfaces. The best way of doing this is to put the shafts in the box, ensure they turn freely and then drill tapping size through both gearbox and inner cover. Separate and carefully enlarge the hole in the inner cover, to the stud size, this enables the new studs to act as dowels.</p><p> </p><p>Another problem with mine was the kickstart return stop. This was replaced with an Socket Headed Capscrew with a special nut on the outside, special in the sense that the nut has to be reduced in diameter on its face to fit. The head of the capscrew has to be taken down a little to fit in and a short piece of hose over the head acts as a buffer.</p><p> </p><p>Hope above helps and good luck, Don</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Don Morris, post: 1797, member: 4564"] Robert I have'nt been able to add any information on the Forks, but as you have the box to pieces and mentioned studs this reminded me of some of my problems with an A box. A common mod is to fit the studs with 1/4 Whit, in the Alloy, and make the outer threads 1/4 BSF, for the nuts. This gives a better clamping force and less chance of the nut working loose. The standard is 1/4 Whit each end. Also make the studs as long as possible, in the alloy, tapping the holes if necessary. This makes the thread longer than normal and enables you to pick up on good threads. I found it possible to increase to 5/16 two of the studs that hold the inner case of the gearchange/kickstart compartment to the gearcase proper. This helps to locate them together, and is not seen from the outside. Mine was originally rocking and fretting the mating surfaces. The best way of doing this is to put the shafts in the box, ensure they turn freely and then drill tapping size through both gearbox and inner cover. Separate and carefully enlarge the hole in the inner cover, to the stud size, this enables the new studs to act as dowels. Another problem with mine was the kickstart return stop. This was replaced with an Socket Headed Capscrew with a special nut on the outside, special in the sense that the nut has to be reduced in diameter on its face to fit. The head of the capscrew has to be taken down a little to fit in and a short piece of hose over the head acts as a buffer. Hope above helps and good luck, Don [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Irving's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Gearboxes.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top