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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Friendly chap with huge kickstart foot required!
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<blockquote data-quote="Simon Dinsdale" data-source="post: 32798" data-attributes="member: 58"><p>Phil,</p><p>I have been having problems starting my Rapide when cold. It would start warm no problem. It has shadow 229 / 289 carbs on it so the front is the same as your comet. After struggling and needing help to start it at the Severn rally I have just had a look at the carbs over the last 2 days. </p><p></p><p>The front carb (same as yours) when I stripped it down, the fit of the jetblock in the body was not good. It fell out with its own weight. These should be a good tight push into the body so no fuel or air can leak around the jet block and into the idle jet system. Do not use force to remove the jetblock as you will distort it. </p><p>When cold and you tickle the float and so raise the fuel level in the carb I guess fuel was by capilary working around the badly fitting jetblock and giving too rich a mixture and flooding the cylinder. This could also explain why when I adjusted the pilot air screw not a lot changed.</p><p></p><p>Luckily I have a spare carb body and jet block and these are a very good fit. In fact I had to warm the body just to push the jetblock out to examine it.</p><p></p><p>The end result is the bike appears to start a lot easier when cold and have just been for a run where when I adjusted the tickover settings, adjusting the pilot air screw now does what it should.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps</p><p>Simon.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Simon Dinsdale, post: 32798, member: 58"] Phil, I have been having problems starting my Rapide when cold. It would start warm no problem. It has shadow 229 / 289 carbs on it so the front is the same as your comet. After struggling and needing help to start it at the Severn rally I have just had a look at the carbs over the last 2 days. The front carb (same as yours) when I stripped it down, the fit of the jetblock in the body was not good. It fell out with its own weight. These should be a good tight push into the body so no fuel or air can leak around the jet block and into the idle jet system. Do not use force to remove the jetblock as you will distort it. When cold and you tickle the float and so raise the fuel level in the carb I guess fuel was by capilary working around the badly fitting jetblock and giving too rich a mixture and flooding the cylinder. This could also explain why when I adjusted the pilot air screw not a lot changed. Luckily I have a spare carb body and jet block and these are a very good fit. In fact I had to warm the body just to push the jetblock out to examine it. The end result is the bike appears to start a lot easier when cold and have just been for a run where when I adjusted the tickover settings, adjusting the pilot air screw now does what it should. Hope this helps Simon. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Friendly chap with huge kickstart foot required!
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