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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Float Level 276's
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<blockquote data-quote="Prosper Keating" data-source="post: 9802" data-attributes="member: 1376"><p>I'd expect the float level to be too high as a result of wear and/or lapping in of the float needle and feed tapers. Experimenting with fibre washers of varying thickness between the carb and the float chamber is one solution. So is experimenting with washers of varying thickness between the jet block and its retainer, which screws onto the bottom of the carb body. You can also play with the height of the retaining clip on the front carb float although this is not really an option with the top-feed set-up on the rear carb. </p><p></p><p>One thing is sure, though: you should find a spare bottom bolt, the one clamping the float chambers to side-float carbs, drill it, fit it with a stub to take a length of flexible, transparent tubing - model aircraft engine fuel line is ideal - to act as a standpipe. You can fit this to a carb mounted on or off the bike to ascertain the actual fuel level in the float chamber. It should just come up to the level of the air or pilot adjustment screw. Just 'kissing' the bottom of this horizontal drilling. If higher or lower, then you must find a way of rectifying this to obviate excessive low down richness or weakness.</p><p></p><p>Leaking carbs are not only unsightly but much more expensive now, given the price of petrol. You wouldn't throw 30 year old single malt whiskey on the ground, would you? LOL! However, sidefloat Amals will tend to drip when canted over. They will sometimes drip when level, if the float is sticking, which is when you tap the carb with your steel-capped boot. </p><p></p><p>PK</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Prosper Keating, post: 9802, member: 1376"] I'd expect the float level to be too high as a result of wear and/or lapping in of the float needle and feed tapers. Experimenting with fibre washers of varying thickness between the carb and the float chamber is one solution. So is experimenting with washers of varying thickness between the jet block and its retainer, which screws onto the bottom of the carb body. You can also play with the height of the retaining clip on the front carb float although this is not really an option with the top-feed set-up on the rear carb. One thing is sure, though: you should find a spare bottom bolt, the one clamping the float chambers to side-float carbs, drill it, fit it with a stub to take a length of flexible, transparent tubing - model aircraft engine fuel line is ideal - to act as a standpipe. You can fit this to a carb mounted on or off the bike to ascertain the actual fuel level in the float chamber. It should just come up to the level of the air or pilot adjustment screw. Just 'kissing' the bottom of this horizontal drilling. If higher or lower, then you must find a way of rectifying this to obviate excessive low down richness or weakness. Leaking carbs are not only unsightly but much more expensive now, given the price of petrol. You wouldn't throw 30 year old single malt whiskey on the ground, would you? LOL! However, sidefloat Amals will tend to drip when canted over. They will sometimes drip when level, if the float is sticking, which is when you tap the carb with your steel-capped boot. PK [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Float Level 276's
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