Primary Drive Drive sprocket taper fit?

billirwinnz

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My understanding of this set up is that it moves the slinger washer just inboard enough that it just misses the outer bearing shield/cover......this minimizes oil loss into the primary chain-case area from the engine crankcase.......not dissimilar to how the beveled slinger works behind the generator sprocket on a post war twin, close to but not touching the inner face of the ET 164.
Hi Greg

I haven’t had the bottom end apart but it has a thin oil seal fitted in the bearing housing.
 

delboy

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My take on PEI's plan when all is assembled, was that the double coil washer puts pressure on the inner track of the ball bearing, which in turn puts side pressure on the balls against the outside outer track and thus, hard against the oil slinger shim and against the "tin hat" cover.
Now one needs to take a little of that side thrust off of the ball bearings and make them a bit more centrally in the bearing track.
Hence the idea of the sprocket being almost tight on the taper and the shim behind it adjusted so that it just slightly pushes the oil slinger and inner bearing back against the spring pressure to relieve the balls of very high loading and get a slight clearance for the oil slinger.
 

delboy

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also, forgot the twin has to have a spacer the same thickness as the seal.
As far as I can ascertain, the original metal clad leather seal was 3/16" thick, [outboard of the ball bearing] with a corresponding amount removed from the faces of the ball bearing to make it thinner.
Getting real hard original info' is nigh impossible and written info' is woolly at best.
Oh, for a Tardis.
 

billirwinnz

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My take on PEI's plan when all is assembled, was that the double coil washer puts pressure on the inner track of the ball bearing, which in turn puts side pressure on the balls against the outside outer track and thus, hard against the oil slinger shim and against the "tin hat" cover.
Now one needs to take a little of that side thrust off of the ball bearings and make them a bit more centrally in the bearing track.
Hence the idea of the sprocket being almost tight on the taper and the shim behind it adjusted so that it just slightly pushes the oil slinger and inner bearing back against the spring pressure to relieve the balls of very high loading and get a slight clearance for the oil slinger.
I wonder why he decided on such a complicated design when the established designs (and his postwar design) were much simpler. The same applies to the valve retention. In general he was such a down to earth keep it simple designer.
 

Marvel

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You can use a 2RS sealed bearing and take one of the seals out to stop oil filling the chaincase when it leaks past the oil pump.
The spring-loaded chip guard arrangement is more to stop bits of primary chain reaching the main bearings rather than stopping oil leaking.
 
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