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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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<blockquote data-quote="clevtrev" data-source="post: 57572" data-attributes="member: 187"><p>Dry assembly means NO oil in the combustion chamber at all. Otherwise the first time the engine fires the oil will glaze on the cylinder wall, and no way will the rings seat. So just lightly oil the skirt below the rings, degrease <u>everything</u> above the oil control ring. For best results a 10W oil will be the way to go, forget using 40W. On start up for the first time, open the throttle, and give it plenty of revs for at least two minutes, it`s the gas pressure that pushes the rings into contact with the bore. As it`s now winter use the 10W for 500 or so miles then change for more 10. After all you don`t want your engine to be glued together, you want it to run freely. And when you do give us some feedback to tell us how warm the oil got.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="clevtrev, post: 57572, member: 187"] Dry assembly means NO oil in the combustion chamber at all. Otherwise the first time the engine fires the oil will glaze on the cylinder wall, and no way will the rings seat. So just lightly oil the skirt below the rings, degrease [U]everything[/U] above the oil control ring. For best results a 10W oil will be the way to go, forget using 40W. On start up for the first time, open the throttle, and give it plenty of revs for at least two minutes, it`s the gas pressure that pushes the rings into contact with the bore. As it`s now winter use the 10W for 500 or so miles then change for more 10. After all you don`t want your engine to be glued together, you want it to run freely. And when you do give us some feedback to tell us how warm the oil got. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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