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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 57494" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Kenny,</p><p></p><p>You could have a serious hidden problem, but none to the story and photos point to one. If you had performed a Leak Down test, you would have known before it was dismantled which components were leaking. Having passed on the test, it is now up to visual inspection. My guess is that the rings have failed through improper break in. I would deglaze the cylinder and install new rings. I install them dry, but others can't resist applying oil, but it should be break in oil not engine oil. </p><p></p><p>I would not worry about the Dick Busby method. If I remember, Neville's article was a response to Dick's method. If I read Martyn correctly, he is following the Neville method, which is, simply stated, checking when the breather opens and closes. His other suggestions are straight from Phil Irving and easy to do with a file, but not the end of the world if you don't. I have found the stock breather to be quite good on a properly built engine.</p><p></p><p>The carbon should not be a big worry. The intake valve passes a nice cool charge from the carb and is constantly cooled this way. The exhaust is passing very high temperature combusted gases and is mostly cooled by passing heat through the tiny contact ring on the exhaust seat. Thus, it runs much hotter than the intake. So, it will usually have more carbon deposits even in an oily environment. </p><p></p><p>I broke a compression ring at a race in Texas and when I put the new rings in I deglazed the cylinder with a ball hone and broke it in properly. After three years it is still near new (4% leak down).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]3294[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 57494, member: 1177"] Kenny, You could have a serious hidden problem, but none to the story and photos point to one. If you had performed a Leak Down test, you would have known before it was dismantled which components were leaking. Having passed on the test, it is now up to visual inspection. My guess is that the rings have failed through improper break in. I would deglaze the cylinder and install new rings. I install them dry, but others can't resist applying oil, but it should be break in oil not engine oil. I would not worry about the Dick Busby method. If I remember, Neville's article was a response to Dick's method. If I read Martyn correctly, he is following the Neville method, which is, simply stated, checking when the breather opens and closes. His other suggestions are straight from Phil Irving and easy to do with a file, but not the end of the world if you don't. I have found the stock breather to be quite good on a properly built engine. The carbon should not be a big worry. The intake valve passes a nice cool charge from the carb and is constantly cooled this way. The exhaust is passing very high temperature combusted gases and is mostly cooled by passing heat through the tiny contact ring on the exhaust seat. Thus, it runs much hotter than the intake. So, it will usually have more carbon deposits even in an oily environment. I broke a compression ring at a race in Texas and when I put the new rings in I deglazed the cylinder with a ball hone and broke it in properly. After three years it is still near new (4% leak down). [ATTACH=full]3294[/ATTACH] David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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