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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Design improvements for the BT-H?
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<blockquote data-quote="1660bob" data-source="post: 42230" data-attributes="member: 366"><p>Yes I too had to do some final fitting to accomodate the BTH and coils. I think its fair to say that offering up the unit to an engine is really only the start point.All crankcases will differ in generosity of casting to some degree, and mine was a good example. I found that to get the BTH to sit down PROPERLY on its mount/sealing face took some careful work with a file/torchlight etc.I had to relieve the corner of the nearside crankcase half at the joint line as it protruded forward a lot here as compared to the other case half. I then found that the BTH itself had signs of metal removal at the back (from new), where they are closest to(interfering with ?) the engine cases. I found it necessary to remove more to ensure comfortable clearence at the back.I then found that the rear, lower "point" on the BTH triangular mounting flange was also too generous, and overshot the machined flat on the engine case,preventing it from sitting down and necessitating considerable metal removal with a file (on the BTH) This done, I satisfied myself that the unit was fully sat down, flange to case AND with sufficient clearence to allow full "swiwel" on the timing adjustment slots.Time and care is needed, much peering underneath with that torch to achieve a proper result. I suspect many could be badly fitted and whacked up tight on the nuts causing stress/misalignment/oil weeps etc etc.</p><p>Its also worth noting that the supplied long "screwdriver" type allen key really, in my opinion needs to be ground right down along its shaft,rounding off the hexagon profile and reducing the overall dia., so that it fits easily behind the unit when tightening the bolts- and the corners of the said hexagon shaft , once removed, do not damage the wires where they emerge from the unit, which is pretty much in line with where the allen key needs to be! Yes ,I agree, a wiring exit at the bottom would be much better. </p><p></p><p>Moving on to the coils, again, work is likely needed to mount them as each owner prefers- its more of a personal preference thing here, space is tight, and all needs to be kept well tucked in away from the stand springs etc.I modded my bracket to pull everything in tight and "point" the coil lead ports towards the cowling exit nicely. I had to cut and extend the LT [ATTACH]1799[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1800[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1801[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1802[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1803[/ATTACH]wires, and I also found that "flag" type connectors are better here for neatness and clearence-here`s my effort, all fits nicely under the cowl with no rubbing /clearence issues. Regards,Bob.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="1660bob, post: 42230, member: 366"] Yes I too had to do some final fitting to accomodate the BTH and coils. I think its fair to say that offering up the unit to an engine is really only the start point.All crankcases will differ in generosity of casting to some degree, and mine was a good example. I found that to get the BTH to sit down PROPERLY on its mount/sealing face took some careful work with a file/torchlight etc.I had to relieve the corner of the nearside crankcase half at the joint line as it protruded forward a lot here as compared to the other case half. I then found that the BTH itself had signs of metal removal at the back (from new), where they are closest to(interfering with ?) the engine cases. I found it necessary to remove more to ensure comfortable clearence at the back.I then found that the rear, lower "point" on the BTH triangular mounting flange was also too generous, and overshot the machined flat on the engine case,preventing it from sitting down and necessitating considerable metal removal with a file (on the BTH) This done, I satisfied myself that the unit was fully sat down, flange to case AND with sufficient clearence to allow full "swiwel" on the timing adjustment slots.Time and care is needed, much peering underneath with that torch to achieve a proper result. I suspect many could be badly fitted and whacked up tight on the nuts causing stress/misalignment/oil weeps etc etc. Its also worth noting that the supplied long "screwdriver" type allen key really, in my opinion needs to be ground right down along its shaft,rounding off the hexagon profile and reducing the overall dia., so that it fits easily behind the unit when tightening the bolts- and the corners of the said hexagon shaft , once removed, do not damage the wires where they emerge from the unit, which is pretty much in line with where the allen key needs to be! Yes ,I agree, a wiring exit at the bottom would be much better. Moving on to the coils, again, work is likely needed to mount them as each owner prefers- its more of a personal preference thing here, space is tight, and all needs to be kept well tucked in away from the stand springs etc.I modded my bracket to pull everything in tight and "point" the coil lead ports towards the cowling exit nicely. I had to cut and extend the LT [ATTACH]1799.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1800.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1801.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1802.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]1803.vB[/ATTACH]wires, and I also found that "flag" type connectors are better here for neatness and clearence-here`s my effort, all fits nicely under the cowl with no rubbing /clearence issues. Regards,Bob. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Design improvements for the BT-H?
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