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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Complete Restoration of a Black Shadow
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 127923" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Ok so I do know the answer and it is a simple production method that could be replicated but the cost and level of difficulty is too much....... oh and trying to replicate the actual paint itself is another matter.......Firstly from the bikes I have done it is clear that the paint on the frame and engines has no primer under the outer black surface........well from most all the ones i have done including my own bike that was a Harper's rebuild from the early 60's........you can pick the original paint by the signs of drips off the item at any one corner where the item was hung up and then baked in an oven for several hours at somewhere around 60 to 70 degrees. The crankcase matching halves were bolted together and the major cover/barrel openings blanked of with some form of rigid cover plates or similar..........Now this next bit seems to hard to believe, but I was told this and have discussed it several times with David Bowen........ Ok so the factory used a drum like a 44 gal this filled about 2/3rd's to 3/4 full of water.......Then on top of this was added about 4 to 6 inches of Black enamel paint.........Again assuming this to be the same Pinchin and Johnson black stove enamel as they used on most everything else......the crankcases were then slowly lowered into the paint until fully submerged below the surface........then lifted out and left to drip dry a while.........and then off to the oven room for the final stoving process......... I believe the heads and barrels where dipped as well and the outer covers were spray painted. After the crankcases were dry and cooled off........the blanking cover plates were removed and the designated engine number.......that is the last piece of the number was hand stamped with number stamps and the slight damage to the paint if any was touched up with a small artists brush. So this is where folk trying to repaint an engine have a major dilemma........as with most all modern paints, there needs to be an etch primer used and then perhaps 2 coats of black applied........This process produces a paint finish much thicker than the original........Not only that but this extra paint readily fills in the engine number........And it is also the reason why the engine and the rest of the bikes frame and fork parts look so much better than original because so many tiny defects are hidden under this thick paint.........The reason the first part of the engine number........F10AB gets near lost in the paint job is because this part of the engine number is block stamped before the engine was painted.......you can see clearly how the letters/numbers are not punched so deeply into the alloy casing.......So after the cases are painted now, this first part of the number is nearly lost under the thick paint........It is a double edged sword.......You don't want too thick a paint coating, but a poor thin job might not last so well once the bike is on the road.........The original paint was of extremely good quality and had a very solid colour, plus it bonded to the surface extremely well .......This was typical of the paints available back then.......Modern paints do not have this quality so much.........Just like modern brake linings aren't made of asbestos anymore.........This is one of the big challenges you face when restoring these bikes.........And despite what you might think, there are no easy answers........Only the best compromise you can come up with.......</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 127923, member: 597"] Ok so I do know the answer and it is a simple production method that could be replicated but the cost and level of difficulty is too much....... oh and trying to replicate the actual paint itself is another matter.......Firstly from the bikes I have done it is clear that the paint on the frame and engines has no primer under the outer black surface........well from most all the ones i have done including my own bike that was a Harper's rebuild from the early 60's........you can pick the original paint by the signs of drips off the item at any one corner where the item was hung up and then baked in an oven for several hours at somewhere around 60 to 70 degrees. The crankcase matching halves were bolted together and the major cover/barrel openings blanked of with some form of rigid cover plates or similar..........Now this next bit seems to hard to believe, but I was told this and have discussed it several times with David Bowen........ Ok so the factory used a drum like a 44 gal this filled about 2/3rd's to 3/4 full of water.......Then on top of this was added about 4 to 6 inches of Black enamel paint.........Again assuming this to be the same Pinchin and Johnson black stove enamel as they used on most everything else......the crankcases were then slowly lowered into the paint until fully submerged below the surface........then lifted out and left to drip dry a while.........and then off to the oven room for the final stoving process......... I believe the heads and barrels where dipped as well and the outer covers were spray painted. After the crankcases were dry and cooled off........the blanking cover plates were removed and the designated engine number.......that is the last piece of the number was hand stamped with number stamps and the slight damage to the paint if any was touched up with a small artists brush. So this is where folk trying to repaint an engine have a major dilemma........as with most all modern paints, there needs to be an etch primer used and then perhaps 2 coats of black applied........This process produces a paint finish much thicker than the original........Not only that but this extra paint readily fills in the engine number........And it is also the reason why the engine and the rest of the bikes frame and fork parts look so much better than original because so many tiny defects are hidden under this thick paint.........The reason the first part of the engine number........F10AB gets near lost in the paint job is because this part of the engine number is block stamped before the engine was painted.......you can see clearly how the letters/numbers are not punched so deeply into the alloy casing.......So after the cases are painted now, this first part of the number is nearly lost under the thick paint........It is a double edged sword.......You don't want too thick a paint coating, but a poor thin job might not last so well once the bike is on the road.........The original paint was of extremely good quality and had a very solid colour, plus it bonded to the surface extremely well .......This was typical of the paints available back then.......Modern paints do not have this quality so much.........Just like modern brake linings aren't made of asbestos anymore.........This is one of the big challenges you face when restoring these bikes.........And despite what you might think, there are no easy answers........Only the best compromise you can come up with....... [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Complete Restoration of a Black Shadow
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