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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Mongrel
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<blockquote data-quote="Cyborg" data-source="post: 107099" data-attributes="member: 3426"><p>Well the Mk3 gearbox would have had a diaphragm clutch attached to it, but don't know if that would cause them to change the geometry. Plus probably oodles of Commandos around wth Newby clutches.</p><p></p><p>Switching the lever did make a noticeable difference. Some sort of DIY easy pull is probably the answer. The clutch starts to release at .0065" actually I could say it releases at .0065" of lift. When engaging you can hear the plates start to drag at .035", but thats turning it over with the kickstarter, so don't know if at that point it would interfere with finding neutral. In other words, I need to get it running to know for sure. Anyway... I can get a total of .138" lift, so seems to be lots of room to change the ratio without causing problems. Last night I played around a bit with a lever and two DDGs and figure 30% is a good place to start.</p><p></p><p>Maybe someone out there with a nice easy Newby clutch could measure the total lift on their pressure plate when they pull the lever in and that might answer the gearbox lever geometry question. Only problem there is that to compare apples to apples (except for handlebar lever ratio) it needs all of the cable slack taken out plus the slack removed on the adjuster on the pressure plate.</p><p></p><p>I cut down a pushrod and ground a bullet shape on the end to match the Newby adjuster. Used this stuff..totally unnecessary, but had it sitting on the shelf and it helps to create the illusion that I know what I'm doing.</p><p></p><p>BTW...Discussing Castrol R doesn't qualify as a thread highjack. An excellent form of aromatherapy...right up there with the smell of spent gunpowder.. depending on your mood.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]26990[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cyborg, post: 107099, member: 3426"] Well the Mk3 gearbox would have had a diaphragm clutch attached to it, but don't know if that would cause them to change the geometry. Plus probably oodles of Commandos around wth Newby clutches. Switching the lever did make a noticeable difference. Some sort of DIY easy pull is probably the answer. The clutch starts to release at .0065" actually I could say it releases at .0065" of lift. When engaging you can hear the plates start to drag at .035", but thats turning it over with the kickstarter, so don't know if at that point it would interfere with finding neutral. In other words, I need to get it running to know for sure. Anyway... I can get a total of .138" lift, so seems to be lots of room to change the ratio without causing problems. Last night I played around a bit with a lever and two DDGs and figure 30% is a good place to start. Maybe someone out there with a nice easy Newby clutch could measure the total lift on their pressure plate when they pull the lever in and that might answer the gearbox lever geometry question. Only problem there is that to compare apples to apples (except for handlebar lever ratio) it needs all of the cable slack taken out plus the slack removed on the adjuster on the pressure plate. I cut down a pushrod and ground a bullet shape on the end to match the Newby adjuster. Used this stuff..totally unnecessary, but had it sitting on the shelf and it helps to create the illusion that I know what I'm doing. BTW...Discussing Castrol R doesn't qualify as a thread highjack. An excellent form of aromatherapy...right up there with the smell of spent gunpowder.. depending on your mood. [ATTACH type="full" alt="Clutch pushrod.jpg"]26990[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Mongrel
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