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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet gearbox
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<blockquote data-quote="Hugo Myatt" data-source="post: 20247" data-attributes="member: 99"><p>Just to cheer you up here are some problems I have encountered over the years with the Burman clutch lifting mechanism. The 5/16” ball can wear a neat concave end on the clevis fork so losing effective pushrod length. It can also do this to a lesser extent on the push rod end that bears on the ball. There is some dispute as to the correct length of the clutch push rod. The early spares list states 11 ¼”, KTB 11 3/8” and I have had new ones at 11 3/16”. Take your pick. There are two types of push rod thrust cup in the alloy clutch pressure plate. One (rare) is adjustable, as on the twin. If you have this you are lucky. The more common one is non-adjustable and is also prone to wear and deepen the hole the push rod sits in, again losing effective pushrod length.</p><p>The clutch activating arm has a ‘knobble’ that engages with the clevis fork. This also wears, as does the pivot at the bottom. (Note the technical terms.)</p><p>Finally there is the gearbox mainshaft end float. I have no idea what this should be but on some boxes it seems considerable and, of course, the whole shebang including the clutch moves to the left when the clutch is lifted, again shortening available lift.</p><p>I can only pose the problems. I leave it to all you clever people to furnish the solutions.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hugo Myatt, post: 20247, member: 99"] Just to cheer you up here are some problems I have encountered over the years with the Burman clutch lifting mechanism. The 5/16” ball can wear a neat concave end on the clevis fork so losing effective pushrod length. It can also do this to a lesser extent on the push rod end that bears on the ball. There is some dispute as to the correct length of the clutch push rod. The early spares list states 11 ¼”, KTB 11 3/8” and I have had new ones at 11 3/16”. Take your pick. There are two types of push rod thrust cup in the alloy clutch pressure plate. One (rare) is adjustable, as on the twin. If you have this you are lucky. The more common one is non-adjustable and is also prone to wear and deepen the hole the push rod sits in, again losing effective pushrod length. The clutch activating arm has a ‘knobble’ that engages with the clevis fork. This also wears, as does the pivot at the bottom. (Note the technical terms.) Finally there is the gearbox mainshaft end float. I have no idea what this should be but on some boxes it seems considerable and, of course, the whole shebang including the clutch moves to the left when the clutch is lifted, again shortening available lift. I can only pose the problems. I leave it to all you clever people to furnish the solutions. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet gearbox
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