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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutch?
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<blockquote data-quote="Simon Dinsdale" data-source="post: 23915" data-attributes="member: 58"><p>Hi Albervin,</p><p></p><p>Sorry to everybody else if I am going away from the original thread as this is in reference to series A not post war C's.</p><p></p><p>Yes I was aware that the first plate on an A is extra thick, and mine has that in (120 thou think I think from a cloudy memory). My dad originally built the clutch and reading Paul Richardson's it states there is 4 friction plates in a series A (different for B's and C's) so that is what he put in. The clutch slipped on the kickstart so he thinks he put the extra plain plate in the bottom to increase the spring pressure and new springs from Conways.</p><p></p><p> The clutch still slipped on the road so I dismantled it. Now knew it wasn't the original off the bike because the original clutch is in a box with a chewed up clutch center and outer basket/drum spreading open from the plates chattering. I compared the original center with the one on the bike and found the new center appeared to be brand new and was longer. ie the distance from the front face to the shoulder where the bottom plate sits was longer by approx 120 to 160 thou. The shoulder was also in a different position been further to the back of the clutch (these figures are from memory, I did not note them down at the time). Both centers were of the 4 spring type. The outer basket/drum also had deeper slots and the new drum had a reinforcing ring the full depth of the drum over its outside to stop the drum spreading open. It was not like the drum the VOC spares now sell where strips are spot welded inside the drum to create plate location which was a later Burman design.</p><p></p><p>Even with a extra thick first inner steel plate and the rest of the steel plates at 60 thou thick and 5 off post war type ferodo friction plates (not cork) there was still room. I checked everything from clearance between the bottom of the slots in the outer drum and the bottom steel plate to the position of the plates at full lift and all was ok. It all fits in the primary cover and functions beautifully. No drag or slip. No snatch or grab and is no heavier than the V3 clutch in my C twin.</p><p></p><p>What parts I have I don't know. They are all definitely Burman, look pre war, but measure different to the original in regards to the bottom plate position. My dad got them from his box of spare Burman bits he has aquired over the last 30 years. Could they be Ariel / Panther, I don't know.</p><p></p><p>Finally the new clutch pushrod required with the above clutch after assembling with 5 friction plates measured at 315mm which I believe is the correct length for a series A, so the extra space found must be in the bottom of the clutch.</p><p></p><p>Cheers,</p><p>Simon.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Simon Dinsdale, post: 23915, member: 58"] Hi Albervin, Sorry to everybody else if I am going away from the original thread as this is in reference to series A not post war C's. Yes I was aware that the first plate on an A is extra thick, and mine has that in (120 thou think I think from a cloudy memory). My dad originally built the clutch and reading Paul Richardson's it states there is 4 friction plates in a series A (different for B's and C's) so that is what he put in. The clutch slipped on the kickstart so he thinks he put the extra plain plate in the bottom to increase the spring pressure and new springs from Conways. The clutch still slipped on the road so I dismantled it. Now knew it wasn't the original off the bike because the original clutch is in a box with a chewed up clutch center and outer basket/drum spreading open from the plates chattering. I compared the original center with the one on the bike and found the new center appeared to be brand new and was longer. ie the distance from the front face to the shoulder where the bottom plate sits was longer by approx 120 to 160 thou. The shoulder was also in a different position been further to the back of the clutch (these figures are from memory, I did not note them down at the time). Both centers were of the 4 spring type. The outer basket/drum also had deeper slots and the new drum had a reinforcing ring the full depth of the drum over its outside to stop the drum spreading open. It was not like the drum the VOC spares now sell where strips are spot welded inside the drum to create plate location which was a later Burman design. Even with a extra thick first inner steel plate and the rest of the steel plates at 60 thou thick and 5 off post war type ferodo friction plates (not cork) there was still room. I checked everything from clearance between the bottom of the slots in the outer drum and the bottom steel plate to the position of the plates at full lift and all was ok. It all fits in the primary cover and functions beautifully. No drag or slip. No snatch or grab and is no heavier than the V3 clutch in my C twin. What parts I have I don't know. They are all definitely Burman, look pre war, but measure different to the original in regards to the bottom plate position. My dad got them from his box of spare Burman bits he has aquired over the last 30 years. Could they be Ariel / Panther, I don't know. Finally the new clutch pushrod required with the above clutch after assembling with 5 friction plates measured at 315mm which I believe is the correct length for a series A, so the extra space found must be in the bottom of the clutch. Cheers, Simon. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutch?
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