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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
C45 Clutch Nut Lock Spring
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<blockquote data-quote="Peter Holmes" data-source="post: 140076" data-attributes="member: 302"><p>I tend to agree with you Greg, although I have not investigated your theory yet, my bike runs so well, and has done so since Tony Maughan rebuilt the engine many years ago, I am very reluctant to disturb things.</p><p>What I am tempted to try is to make a Woodruff type key out of the correct thickness stainless steel that will sit in the appropriate slot locking the C20 nut to the shaft, but have the key standing proud of the C20 hexagon flat, use the standard spring with a shortened tang to locate in one of the other C20 slots, then cut a slot in newly made key for the spring wire to locate into, thereby holding the key in place fore and aft, the bottom of the key could rest on the clutch pushrod for stabilisation, it should not matter whether the pushrod is stationary or rotating. It is one last thing to try, I am not really changing anything mechanically, although I might lengthen the appropriate C20 slot a little deeper into the threaded portion for better location.</p><p>Does anyone know the precise width of the slot machined into the gearbox shaft, the springs I have to hand micrometer up at .047 thou = 3/64" I would imagine the machined slots are a little wider, perhaps when the pilot clutch is stripped out I will have to feeler gauge it.</p><p>I am not an engineer, and don't purport to be one, but do any of you guys out there that know far more than I have a view on this experiment, will it work, could it work, is it flirting with danger, what would the best material to fabricate my key from, I have suggested stainless steel for no real reason, it just seems to be tougher material than mild steel, I have a friend that could probably knock me one up in titanium, but is that a more suitable material.</p><p>Any suggestions that save me changing gearbox shaft and clutch shoe carrier would be greatly appreciated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Peter Holmes, post: 140076, member: 302"] I tend to agree with you Greg, although I have not investigated your theory yet, my bike runs so well, and has done so since Tony Maughan rebuilt the engine many years ago, I am very reluctant to disturb things. What I am tempted to try is to make a Woodruff type key out of the correct thickness stainless steel that will sit in the appropriate slot locking the C20 nut to the shaft, but have the key standing proud of the C20 hexagon flat, use the standard spring with a shortened tang to locate in one of the other C20 slots, then cut a slot in newly made key for the spring wire to locate into, thereby holding the key in place fore and aft, the bottom of the key could rest on the clutch pushrod for stabilisation, it should not matter whether the pushrod is stationary or rotating. It is one last thing to try, I am not really changing anything mechanically, although I might lengthen the appropriate C20 slot a little deeper into the threaded portion for better location. Does anyone know the precise width of the slot machined into the gearbox shaft, the springs I have to hand micrometer up at .047 thou = 3/64" I would imagine the machined slots are a little wider, perhaps when the pilot clutch is stripped out I will have to feeler gauge it. I am not an engineer, and don't purport to be one, but do any of you guys out there that know far more than I have a view on this experiment, will it work, could it work, is it flirting with danger, what would the best material to fabricate my key from, I have suggested stainless steel for no real reason, it just seems to be tougher material than mild steel, I have a friend that could probably knock me one up in titanium, but is that a more suitable material. Any suggestions that save me changing gearbox shaft and clutch shoe carrier would be greatly appreciated. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
C45 Clutch Nut Lock Spring
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