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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman 4th Gear Selector Meltdown
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<blockquote data-quote="Matty" data-source="post: 29237" data-attributes="member: 1339"><p>Hi Tatty</p><p></p><p>Measured with my new box and gears from my bike. A - is 135.8 same as yours and B - is 109.65.</p><p></p><p>These are measured as well as I can with a cheapish caliper gague and look very much like yours.</p><p></p><p>Have compared the "damaged" gears with mine and the ones on the mainshaft look dimensionally identical - including the position of the selector grooves.</p><p></p><p>Could you see from the photo when enlarged how far the dogs on mine were engeged, it looks OK doesn't it?</p><p></p><p>So it is still all a bit of a mystery.</p><p></p><p>I could have another problem which will have to be checked out.</p><p></p><p>My mainshaft was roughly straightened in 1957 when I first had problems and I am a bit worried that the slight bend remaining in it may be causing the output bearing to be "worked" in the casing.This may possibly be the cause of the slackness there on my old casing, which was in any case cracked in the 1957 incident - will check this when I reassemble the gearbox onto the mainshaft.</p><p></p><p>I have been a bit lazy and have avoided stripping the primary chaincase and clutch by putting a Pad behind the clutch inspection plate to stop the mainshaft moving back and dislodging the chaincase seal plate, pulling the gears out of the gearbox and then pulling the gearbox off the mainshaft, leaving it in place on the clutch.</p><p></p><p></p><p>To check that the mainshaft output bearing is not being pulled around by any shaft bends I shall have to slip the box with output bearing onto the shaft with the kickstart end bearing in place and check for tight spots by turning the drive sprocket.</p><p></p><p>If it is tight, I shall have to take it all apart and either find another mainshaft or have a go at straightening it a bit more.</p><p></p><p>Waiting for a new tab-washer for the drive sprocket nut, so will proceed when it arrives.</p><p></p><p>Happy Christmas</p><p></p><p>Matty</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Matty, post: 29237, member: 1339"] Hi Tatty Measured with my new box and gears from my bike. A - is 135.8 same as yours and B - is 109.65. These are measured as well as I can with a cheapish caliper gague and look very much like yours. Have compared the "damaged" gears with mine and the ones on the mainshaft look dimensionally identical - including the position of the selector grooves. Could you see from the photo when enlarged how far the dogs on mine were engeged, it looks OK doesn't it? So it is still all a bit of a mystery. I could have another problem which will have to be checked out. My mainshaft was roughly straightened in 1957 when I first had problems and I am a bit worried that the slight bend remaining in it may be causing the output bearing to be "worked" in the casing.This may possibly be the cause of the slackness there on my old casing, which was in any case cracked in the 1957 incident - will check this when I reassemble the gearbox onto the mainshaft. I have been a bit lazy and have avoided stripping the primary chaincase and clutch by putting a Pad behind the clutch inspection plate to stop the mainshaft moving back and dislodging the chaincase seal plate, pulling the gears out of the gearbox and then pulling the gearbox off the mainshaft, leaving it in place on the clutch. To check that the mainshaft output bearing is not being pulled around by any shaft bends I shall have to slip the box with output bearing onto the shaft with the kickstart end bearing in place and check for tight spots by turning the drive sprocket. If it is tight, I shall have to take it all apart and either find another mainshaft or have a go at straightening it a bit more. Waiting for a new tab-washer for the drive sprocket nut, so will proceed when it arrives. Happy Christmas Matty [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman 4th Gear Selector Meltdown
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