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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman 4th Gear Selector Meltdown
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<blockquote data-quote="Matty" data-source="post: 111133" data-attributes="member: 1339"><p>Hi</p><p>I think the tunnelling effect may have been a factor many years ago when we used thick grease, but the newer liquid grease from Classic lubricants the Club or Draganfly flows quite well and in fact may be thixatropic ie. like non drip paint and only becomes liquid when disturbed.</p><p>I have had the screech many years ago with grease which as you say was fixed with a cupful of oil.</p><p>My layshaft bushes have been replaced now with oilite ones because I had bronze ones which seized onto the shaft, turned in the casing and damaged it, even though I was using liquid grease from Draganfly. The casing then had to be bored in line and oversized oilite bushes made and fitted. The book says somewhere that the bushes should be oilite but I do not know what the VOC spares ones are made of.</p><p>Because my box leaked grease from round the gearchange mechanism on long runs, I blocked the holes connecting the inner and outer casings hoping to lubricate the positive stop area separately, but grease still got from the gearbox out to the outer casing somehow - probably through the bearings.</p><p>There is a fix for the gear lever leak from a Swiss member which involves a modification to fit O rings to the output bearing - some fairly simple lathe work is involved on this bearing in the outer casing and it has worked very well for me and I hardly had any significant leaks on my recent 1000 mile journey to the Isle of Man and back for the Manx Rally.</p><p>I must confess that I have had more problems with the allegedly bulletproof Burman box in the 63 years I have owned the Comet than with any other part, but in general the old bike has been very reliable and not let me down on the road, though have had about 6 magneto repairs to fix starting when hot.</p><p>I have now fixed this condenser problem by substituting it for a Brightspark Magnetos easycap condenser which is fitted under the points assembly instead of the insulator, AFTER REMOVING OR CUTTING THE WIRES to the old condenser in the magneto armature. There are excellent instructions on how to do this on Brightspark's site, but I have often had to burn out old araldite or some such round the old condenser with a soldering iron to get at the condenser wires when doing the job for other VMCC members.</p><p>Good Riding</p><p>Matty</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Matty, post: 111133, member: 1339"] Hi I think the tunnelling effect may have been a factor many years ago when we used thick grease, but the newer liquid grease from Classic lubricants the Club or Draganfly flows quite well and in fact may be thixatropic ie. like non drip paint and only becomes liquid when disturbed. I have had the screech many years ago with grease which as you say was fixed with a cupful of oil. My layshaft bushes have been replaced now with oilite ones because I had bronze ones which seized onto the shaft, turned in the casing and damaged it, even though I was using liquid grease from Draganfly. The casing then had to be bored in line and oversized oilite bushes made and fitted. The book says somewhere that the bushes should be oilite but I do not know what the VOC spares ones are made of. Because my box leaked grease from round the gearchange mechanism on long runs, I blocked the holes connecting the inner and outer casings hoping to lubricate the positive stop area separately, but grease still got from the gearbox out to the outer casing somehow - probably through the bearings. There is a fix for the gear lever leak from a Swiss member which involves a modification to fit O rings to the output bearing - some fairly simple lathe work is involved on this bearing in the outer casing and it has worked very well for me and I hardly had any significant leaks on my recent 1000 mile journey to the Isle of Man and back for the Manx Rally. I must confess that I have had more problems with the allegedly bulletproof Burman box in the 63 years I have owned the Comet than with any other part, but in general the old bike has been very reliable and not let me down on the road, though have had about 6 magneto repairs to fix starting when hot. I have now fixed this condenser problem by substituting it for a Brightspark Magnetos easycap condenser which is fitted under the points assembly instead of the insulator, AFTER REMOVING OR CUTTING THE WIRES to the old condenser in the magneto armature. There are excellent instructions on how to do this on Brightspark's site, but I have often had to burn out old araldite or some such round the old condenser with a soldering iron to get at the condenser wires when doing the job for other VMCC members. Good Riding Matty [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman 4th Gear Selector Meltdown
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