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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 83365" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>John,</p><p></p><p>I think it is a good question as to whether the mod is safe. I had thought about doing it to my rear brake on the racer. I decided not to do it. I think I decided that although the floating action on the leading shoe would help the braking, that the floating action on the trailing shoe would work against it. That does not mean the mod doesn't work, it meant to me that arcing the shoes properly and tightening up the hollow axle with the brake applied would probably create the same amount of benefit. I would guess that your braking is better with the modified plate because the shoes are not carefully matched to the drum and arced, otherwise, the loose pins would not move very much.</p><p></p><p>For those not familiar with the mod:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]16606[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>It seems to me that the mod is strong, but when it is tightened up it is the O-rings that are providing the floating action, which I would think is quite small even if beneficial. It is interesting that you see a lot of movement when easing the tightness of the fasteners, if I am following you correctly.</p><p></p><p>Trevor's display mentioned by Stumpy causes a lot of thought. It sounds like it matters less if your brakes are centered if the shoes are not capable of maintaining their original shape. It seems like the shoes are bending into the shape, but maybe they are also bending away from some necessary shapes also. There appears to be a lot of flex in all the components of the system, drum, shoes, pins, plates, balance beam, bridge plate and cable, to name a few. I fear that focusing on one or two soft spots may not help as the other soft spots will absorb and dissipate the improvement. </p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 83365, member: 1177"] John, I think it is a good question as to whether the mod is safe. I had thought about doing it to my rear brake on the racer. I decided not to do it. I think I decided that although the floating action on the leading shoe would help the braking, that the floating action on the trailing shoe would work against it. That does not mean the mod doesn't work, it meant to me that arcing the shoes properly and tightening up the hollow axle with the brake applied would probably create the same amount of benefit. I would guess that your braking is better with the modified plate because the shoes are not carefully matched to the drum and arced, otherwise, the loose pins would not move very much. For those not familiar with the mod: [ATTACH=full]16606[/ATTACH] It seems to me that the mod is strong, but when it is tightened up it is the O-rings that are providing the floating action, which I would think is quite small even if beneficial. It is interesting that you see a lot of movement when easing the tightness of the fasteners, if I am following you correctly. Trevor's display mentioned by Stumpy causes a lot of thought. It sounds like it matters less if your brakes are centered if the shoes are not capable of maintaining their original shape. It seems like the shoes are bending into the shape, but maybe they are also bending away from some necessary shapes also. There appears to be a lot of flex in all the components of the system, drum, shoes, pins, plates, balance beam, bridge plate and cable, to name a few. I fear that focusing on one or two soft spots may not help as the other soft spots will absorb and dissipate the improvement. David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brakes
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