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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brake Shoes and Linings
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 95673" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Simon,</p><p></p><p>Yes. The brakes are made by EBC, which is a neighbor of the Spares, Co.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]22200[/ATTACH]</p><p>Unfortunately they are not "free motorcycle brakes", but "asbestos free motorcycle brakes." I know Bill was excited for a few seconds. But, they are readily available in the UK on Ebay. If you intend to buy some on-line, they may ask you for a model number. I have been using Honda 1972 CB550K. Just make sure the EBC316 pops up. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Chris,</p><p></p><p>The Honda brake plate is too big and it is not really necessary. Moving the pivot does two things, it lets you center the cam face as close as possible to the stock shoe while not running out of meat between the pivot and the inside of the shoe. That is, it is difficult to center the cam ends and leave the wall of the pivot thick enough. But, ultimately, you are also trying to move the lining bed, which is three times the thickness of the Stock shoes, inside the drum far enough so that you don't have to thin them to fit in the smaller Vincent drum. </p><p></p><p>I did it by eye for the ones above. It is not difficult as long as think of lining up the Vincent shoe on top of the Honda shoe and getting all of the outer edge of the Honda shoe within the edge of the Vincent shoe just like in the third photo above. On the next shoes I machine I will place them with the DRO:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]22201[/ATTACH]</p><p>This is what I came up with, but you may choose to do it differently.</p><p></p><p>Thinning the shoe to stock size is easy if you have a good stock shoe and a DRO. Put the stock shoe in the vise, run the cutter up to it and set the DRO to zero. Take the new shoe and cut it back to zero, then flip the shoe 180 degrees and cut to zero.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]22202[/ATTACH]</p><p>Once the lining bed is centered and the correct stock width, put the stock shoe in the vise by gripping the lining bed and bring the cutter to the pivot or cam. Zero the DRO and do the same. I plug the pivot hole first so it gets machined to the proper width.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]22203[/ATTACH]</p><p>Regarding the lining, get it off any way you are able. I used a rotary table to get it down to very thin and used a sander for the final finishing to stock shoe size. A little more meat comes off the ends of the shoe because it is a little larger in diameter.</p><p></p><p>The lining bed does not have to be super precise as the new lining will be mounted and then arced to size. Because these are rear brakes I believe the mu is .35, which is very low. Considering that the linings are very low friction I would put something .50 or higher like Green Gripper, at a minimum. </p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 95673, member: 1177"] Simon, Yes. The brakes are made by EBC, which is a neighbor of the Spares, Co. [ATTACH=full]22200[/ATTACH] Unfortunately they are not "free motorcycle brakes", but "asbestos free motorcycle brakes." I know Bill was excited for a few seconds. But, they are readily available in the UK on Ebay. If you intend to buy some on-line, they may ask you for a model number. I have been using Honda 1972 CB550K. Just make sure the EBC316 pops up. Chris, The Honda brake plate is too big and it is not really necessary. Moving the pivot does two things, it lets you center the cam face as close as possible to the stock shoe while not running out of meat between the pivot and the inside of the shoe. That is, it is difficult to center the cam ends and leave the wall of the pivot thick enough. But, ultimately, you are also trying to move the lining bed, which is three times the thickness of the Stock shoes, inside the drum far enough so that you don't have to thin them to fit in the smaller Vincent drum. I did it by eye for the ones above. It is not difficult as long as think of lining up the Vincent shoe on top of the Honda shoe and getting all of the outer edge of the Honda shoe within the edge of the Vincent shoe just like in the third photo above. On the next shoes I machine I will place them with the DRO: [ATTACH=full]22201[/ATTACH] This is what I came up with, but you may choose to do it differently. Thinning the shoe to stock size is easy if you have a good stock shoe and a DRO. Put the stock shoe in the vise, run the cutter up to it and set the DRO to zero. Take the new shoe and cut it back to zero, then flip the shoe 180 degrees and cut to zero. [ATTACH=full]22202[/ATTACH] Once the lining bed is centered and the correct stock width, put the stock shoe in the vise by gripping the lining bed and bring the cutter to the pivot or cam. Zero the DRO and do the same. I plug the pivot hole first so it gets machined to the proper width. [ATTACH=full]22203[/ATTACH] Regarding the lining, get it off any way you are able. I used a rotary table to get it down to very thin and used a sander for the final finishing to stock shoe size. A little more meat comes off the ends of the shoe because it is a little larger in diameter. The lining bed does not have to be super precise as the new lining will be mounted and then arced to size. Because these are rear brakes I believe the mu is .35, which is very low. Considering that the linings are very low friction I would put something .50 or higher like Green Gripper, at a minimum. David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Brake Shoes and Linings
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