ET: Engine (Twin) Black Shadow

[Sakura]

Loctite 290 is the wicking grade. It does work but will probably make the screw tighter to get out if it doesn't solve the problem.

 

[greg brillus]

Unfortunately oil on the thread will prevent any sealant from working.......the screw should be removed, then allow some time to drain. Flush the hole/threads clean with some carby or brake clean in a spray can and air dry using compressed air........Clean up the grub screw and coat the thread in a liquid thread sealant (I find a German product called Cyberbond to be the best) then replace the screw and do it up until just bellow the hole in the case as Bill suggested. This sealant is anaerobic like loctite and will lock the screw once the sealant has set........ I would not use a thread locker type loctite for 2 reasons, 1 is the loctite will make any future removal difficult, and 2 not all loctites are successful in sealing oil........If you do remove it, be extra careful to use a good blade screwdriver and one where the blade fits the slot very well, to start it moving an impact type screwdriver works best as the hammer blows will shock the thread and start it rotating easier than just a hand screwdriver on its own........Good luck with it all.

 

[Monkeypants]

Ive used the green wicking type right in oil ( leaking cylinder base gasket) with success.
I did hit the area with some brake cleaner first, but all externally applied, so who knows if it was effective.
I would say if it doesn't seal then it also won't be a problem as far as later removal of the screw.
If it does seal, then no need to remove the screw.

Glen

 

[vibrac]

Strangely I had just decided to try that wicking loctite on the push rod tube lower seal when even the recent o ring suggestions failed.
The engine failure has spared me that excersise but it seems a viable suggestion.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Strangely I had just decided to try that wicking loctite on the push rod tube lower seal when even the recent o ring suggestions failed.
The engine failure has spared me that excersise but it seems a viable suggestion.

The new push rod tube seals from neal Videan are perfect. They employ a viton 'x' ring seal BUT the tubes must be in good condition.

 

[vibrac]

Thanks I will get a set for the big rebuild in the winter lockdown and two new tubes

 

[oexing]

Loctite 221 or 222 are very low strength types I use a lot, just like nylocs - which I have never used anywhere still. So it can be used on grub screws or cheese head types too. Sometimes you can be lucky to use teflon tape on oily threads without degreasing when you are careful with winding the tape tightly, also used on fuel taps. There you better go for 222 as the tap will keep set in your desired orientation.

Vic

 

[brian gains]

i''ll butt in regarding fuel tap threads, use soap (bar of) rubbed n the threads. let the lock nut do the holding and the soap do the sealing.

 

[Phil Talbot]

All sorted! Thanks for all the support and advice.
my Saturday evening was spent removing the grub screw, cleaning the thread in the tapped hole using cotton wool buds and my wife’s nail varnish remover ( I got accused of opening a beauty parlour in the man cave) then putting a small amount of Loctite 2400 on the grub screw and screwing it back in. Had the bike running on Sunday and today no oil leak to be found.
thanks again
P