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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
bicycle computer speedometer
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<blockquote data-quote="Martyn Goodwin" data-source="post: 34140" data-attributes="member: 2433"><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">Bicycle computers have been used on motorcycles for years, below is a review I wrote over 10 years ago. I recomment you use either a SIGMA brand BC509 </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"><a href="http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bikecomputer/topline_2009_wired/bc509/?punkt=features" target="_blank"><span style="color: #800080">http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bikecomputer/topline_2009_wired/bc509/?punkt=features</span></a> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">- that does NOT have any backlighting - and is designed for push bikes.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">OR</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">If you MUST have backlighting then there is the VAPOR brand designed specifically for motorbikes -</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"><a href="http://trailtech.net/vapor.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #800080">http://trailtech.net/vapor.html</span></a></span></span></p><p> <span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">it is backlit and also includes a Tach function - but it is a tad more expensive and does need a 6 or 12 volt connection to the bike. Heck - just remembered its for your Vincent so damb the price, go for the Vapor!</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"><strong><span style="color: #ff0000">Irrespective of your decision do NOT use a wireless bicycle computer as a Vincents ignition pulses will send it haywire!</span></strong></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'century gothic'">Just in case, here is my review of the Sigma system.</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">===================================================================</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 18px"><strong><span style="color: #000000"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Mounting a Digital Trip Computer</span></span></strong></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">By Martyn Goodwin, Melbourne Section</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">The speedo fitted to any bike <em>or scooter</em> is a compromise based on the tyre fitted by the bike maker as new. As soon as the tyre starts to wear or if you replace it with anything else then the original the speedo calibration becomes suspect. Fitting a digital bicycle computer allows you to correct for this error plus it provides a lot more functionality. You can use any bicycle computer however the SIGMA unit has been used by many motorcyclists with a lot of success. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">The SIGMA unit offers the following features:</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Speedo to 300kpm</span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Trip distance accurate to 10 metres </span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">24 hour Clock</span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Odometer, logs up to 99,999 Km</span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Riding Time – auto start/stop stop watch tracks actual riding time</span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Max Speed </span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Average speed </span></span></span></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul"><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Comparison - actual to average.</span></span></span></li> </ul><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p> <span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">You should be able to buy any of the Sigma bicycle computers from just about any mainstream bicycle store. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">It must be pointed out that the operating environment on a motor cycle is far LESS harsh than experienced on a bicycle, so robustness of the unit is not in question.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">OK so what do you need? Head off to your local bicycle store and purchase a SIGMA BC509, bicycle computer. You also need a small amount of high strength double sided tape – an auto accessory store or your local auto repair shop can help here. You will also need about a dozen thin cable ties plus you may also need a length of microphone cable – more on this later.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">These computers all work the same way. The sensor is always some form of magnetic switch and each time that the switch closes (by a passing magnet) it activates a pulse inside the computer. The sensor mounts on the front fork and the magnet mounts on the wheel. Now – the itty bitty magnet that comes with the computer is just that – itty bitty gutless, ok for a bicycle where speeds are low and its easy to adjust the space between the sensor and the magnet but rather hopeless on a motor bike. I attacked a cheap set of compact headphones (not the in ear bud type) and salvaged the voice coil magnets. These things are about 1cm in diam and just a few mm thick and boy are they strong magnets. An even better solution is to purchase a small rare earth magnet from your local Radio Shack or Tandy store</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">About that microphone cable. It may be that the cable between the sensor unit and the computer mount as supplied is not long enough for your installation – and this was the case for me. What I did was cut the original cable about 12 inches away from both the sensor and the computer mount then soldered in a length of microphone cable. I used very thin heat shrink tube to insulate each conductor (microphone cable is a form of very very flexible coaxial cable – i.e. it is two conductor) then put a slightly larger diam heat shrink over the lot. I chose to use microphone cable because it is very flexible and also has a strong outer covering.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Preparing for the install. The sensor that comes with the unit is in 2 parts – a holder that is meant to attach to the bicycle fork and the sensor that locks into the holder. Separate the two and throw that holder gizmo into the trash can right now. Grab a pair of side cutters then remove from the back of the sensor those dinky mounting lugs. Next get a small file – we are about to cut some location groves into the ‘face’ of the sensor to locate thin cable ties ( oh, you are going to need a few thin cable ties – if at any time you think that they are not long enough , remember- they can be joined together). </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Once you have removed the lugs from the back of the sensor and cut the shallow location groves in the front of the sensor, put the double sided tape on the back of it and trim the tape to size. <strong>Do not</strong> remove the outer protective tape layer just yet!</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">It is now time to turn your attention to the other end of the cable – the computer mount.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">When you sit on your bike I want you to look at all possible mounting points. You may be able to mount the unit around the bars, just like on a bicycle. You will most likely need to come up with another solution. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">After this you can mount the computer holder to your bike.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">You now need to feed the cable (connecting the computer mount to the sensor) down so that you can mount the sensor on the fork . If your bike is fitted with a fairing you may need to remove some fairing parts in order to do this. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Do not stick the sensor down just yet!</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Now for the magnet, it mounts close to the inside edge of the front wheel. I applied a small daub of epoxy to the back of the magnet – just in case. Hey, before you do the same put the magnet on the wheel and then spin the front wheel to ensure that the magnet does not hit on the fork – if it does hit the fork you need to seek out a thinner magnet. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">Once you have the magnet in place you can remove the cover tape from the double sided stuff you put on the back of the sensor then put that sensor into position. It does not need to be at 90 degrees to the magnet – on my install its about 45 degrees and all works fine –be sure to check that when you spin the wheel that the magnet does not hit the sensor. </span><span style="color: #000000"> Make sure that the white alignment mark on the sensor lines up with the centre of the magnet – this is important for correct operation of the sensor. Also position the sensor so that if it breaks loose (God forbid) it will not be jammed between the fork and the wheel. If you mount it above the axle then it must go on the front side of the fork – below the axle it must go on the rear of the fork. All depends on your bike.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">All done? Well wrap a couple of thin cable ties around the sensor/fork leg as insurance against the mounting tape failing. Use those spare cable ties to tidy everything up, ensuring that the sensor cable cannot foul the wheel etc.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">You now need to calibrate the computer – detailed instructions are included with the computer so just follow them.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'book antiqua'"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #000000">And do not even think of removing your speedo cable in order to keep your bike or scooter seemingly ever young!</span></span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Martyn Goodwin, post: 34140, member: 2433"] [SIZE=3][FONT=century gothic]Bicycle computers have been used on motorcycles for years, below is a review I wrote over 10 years ago. I recomment you use either a SIGMA brand BC509 [URL="http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bikecomputer/topline_2009_wired/bc509/?punkt=features"][COLOR=#800080]http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bikecomputer/topline_2009_wired/bc509/?punkt=features[/COLOR][/URL] - that does NOT have any backlighting - and is designed for push bikes. OR If you MUST have backlighting then there is the VAPOR brand designed specifically for motorbikes - [URL="http://trailtech.net/vapor.html"][COLOR=#800080]http://trailtech.net/vapor.html[/COLOR][/URL] it is backlit and also includes a Tach function - but it is a tad more expensive and does need a 6 or 12 volt connection to the bike. Heck - just remembered its for your Vincent so damb the price, go for the Vapor! [B][COLOR=#ff0000]Irrespective of your decision do NOT use a wireless bicycle computer as a Vincents ignition pulses will send it haywire![/COLOR][/B] Just in case, here is my review of the Sigma system.[/FONT][/SIZE] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]=================================================================== [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=5][B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Mounting a Digital Trip Computer[/FONT][/COLOR][/B][/SIZE] [FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]By Martyn Goodwin, Melbourne Section[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]The speedo fitted to any bike [I]or scooter[/I] is a compromise based on the tyre fitted by the bike maker as new. As soon as the tyre starts to wear or if you replace it with anything else then the original the speedo calibration becomes suspect. Fitting a digital bicycle computer allows you to correct for this error plus it provides a lot more functionality. You can use any bicycle computer however the SIGMA unit has been used by many motorcyclists with a lot of success. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]The SIGMA unit offers the following features:[/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [LIST] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Speedo to 300kpm[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Trip distance accurate to 10 metres [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]24 hour Clock[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Odometer, logs up to 99,999 Km[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Riding Time – auto start/stop stop watch tracks actual riding time[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Max Speed [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Average speed [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [*][FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000]Comparison - actual to average.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [/LIST] [FONT=book antiqua][SIZE=4] [COLOR=#000000]You should be able to buy any of the Sigma bicycle computers from just about any mainstream bicycle store. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]It must be pointed out that the operating environment on a motor cycle is far LESS harsh than experienced on a bicycle, so robustness of the unit is not in question.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]OK so what do you need? Head off to your local bicycle store and purchase a SIGMA BC509, bicycle computer. You also need a small amount of high strength double sided tape – an auto accessory store or your local auto repair shop can help here. You will also need about a dozen thin cable ties plus you may also need a length of microphone cable – more on this later.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]These computers all work the same way. The sensor is always some form of magnetic switch and each time that the switch closes (by a passing magnet) it activates a pulse inside the computer. The sensor mounts on the front fork and the magnet mounts on the wheel. Now – the itty bitty magnet that comes with the computer is just that – itty bitty gutless, ok for a bicycle where speeds are low and its easy to adjust the space between the sensor and the magnet but rather hopeless on a motor bike. I attacked a cheap set of compact headphones (not the in ear bud type) and salvaged the voice coil magnets. These things are about 1cm in diam and just a few mm thick and boy are they strong magnets. An even better solution is to purchase a small rare earth magnet from your local Radio Shack or Tandy store[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]About that microphone cable. It may be that the cable between the sensor unit and the computer mount as supplied is not long enough for your installation – and this was the case for me. What I did was cut the original cable about 12 inches away from both the sensor and the computer mount then soldered in a length of microphone cable. I used very thin heat shrink tube to insulate each conductor (microphone cable is a form of very very flexible coaxial cable – i.e. it is two conductor) then put a slightly larger diam heat shrink over the lot. I chose to use microphone cable because it is very flexible and also has a strong outer covering.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]Preparing for the install. The sensor that comes with the unit is in 2 parts – a holder that is meant to attach to the bicycle fork and the sensor that locks into the holder. Separate the two and throw that holder gizmo into the trash can right now. Grab a pair of side cutters then remove from the back of the sensor those dinky mounting lugs. Next get a small file – we are about to cut some location groves into the ‘face’ of the sensor to locate thin cable ties ( oh, you are going to need a few thin cable ties – if at any time you think that they are not long enough , remember- they can be joined together). [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]Once you have removed the lugs from the back of the sensor and cut the shallow location groves in the front of the sensor, put the double sided tape on the back of it and trim the tape to size. [B]Do not[/B] remove the outer protective tape layer just yet![/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]It is now time to turn your attention to the other end of the cable – the computer mount.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]When you sit on your bike I want you to look at all possible mounting points. You may be able to mount the unit around the bars, just like on a bicycle. You will most likely need to come up with another solution. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]After this you can mount the computer holder to your bike.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]You now need to feed the cable (connecting the computer mount to the sensor) down so that you can mount the sensor on the fork . If your bike is fitted with a fairing you may need to remove some fairing parts in order to do this. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]Do not stick the sensor down just yet![/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]Now for the magnet, it mounts close to the inside edge of the front wheel. I applied a small daub of epoxy to the back of the magnet – just in case. Hey, before you do the same put the magnet on the wheel and then spin the front wheel to ensure that the magnet does not hit on the fork – if it does hit the fork you need to seek out a thinner magnet. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]Once you have the magnet in place you can remove the cover tape from the double sided stuff you put on the back of the sensor then put that sensor into position. It does not need to be at 90 degrees to the magnet – on my install its about 45 degrees and all works fine –be sure to check that when you spin the wheel that the magnet does not hit the sensor. [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000] Make sure that the white alignment mark on the sensor lines up with the centre of the magnet – this is important for correct operation of the sensor. Also position the sensor so that if it breaks loose (God forbid) it will not be jammed between the fork and the wheel. If you mount it above the axle then it must go on the front side of the fork – below the axle it must go on the rear of the fork. All depends on your bike.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]All done? Well wrap a couple of thin cable ties around the sensor/fork leg as insurance against the mounting tape failing. Use those spare cable ties to tidy everything up, ensuring that the sensor cable cannot foul the wheel etc.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]You now need to calibrate the computer – detailed instructions are included with the computer so just follow them.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]And do not even think of removing your speedo cable in order to keep your bike or scooter seemingly ever young![/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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bicycle computer speedometer
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