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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Best Front Damper for Series 'D'
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 137173" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>This problem of the AVO damper hitting the rear/underside of the top link is something that crops up with the JE steering stems. On my own bike, the ex-Cecil Mill 'C', I had to grind a lot of material out of the link. Some other bikes don't even touch. I have no idea why. I can't believe that the distance between front and rear hole centres on either the top or bottom links can differ. The same problem arises with the front mudguard hitting the front of the engine. Some do and others do not. Before starting the production and supply of the JE steering heads I spent a lot of time measuring the front wheel spindle movement. I even got AVO to send me an empty damper so that I could make a scale on the outside to compare damper movement with spring box movement. I found, and John probably knew this before me, that the allowed range of movement is important. If the lower link starts off with the front too low then the wheel path is forwards to start with which is what the system is intended to prevent. The standard Vincent fork geometry gives a wheel movement from the lowest position which is forwards, then upwards more or less vertically, and then forwards again at the top of the travel The combination of damper and eyebolt length need to be such that one does not get into the most rearward of this travel. It is time consuming but not too difficult to plot out the front wheel spindle movement once the spring boxes have been released. Exactly how you do it will depend upon what you have lying around to make use of.</p><p>Is there no one out there with a standard 'D' front end and an AVO who can tell Kerry if they are happy with this combination?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 137173, member: 456"] This problem of the AVO damper hitting the rear/underside of the top link is something that crops up with the JE steering stems. On my own bike, the ex-Cecil Mill 'C', I had to grind a lot of material out of the link. Some other bikes don't even touch. I have no idea why. I can't believe that the distance between front and rear hole centres on either the top or bottom links can differ. The same problem arises with the front mudguard hitting the front of the engine. Some do and others do not. Before starting the production and supply of the JE steering heads I spent a lot of time measuring the front wheel spindle movement. I even got AVO to send me an empty damper so that I could make a scale on the outside to compare damper movement with spring box movement. I found, and John probably knew this before me, that the allowed range of movement is important. If the lower link starts off with the front too low then the wheel path is forwards to start with which is what the system is intended to prevent. The standard Vincent fork geometry gives a wheel movement from the lowest position which is forwards, then upwards more or less vertically, and then forwards again at the top of the travel The combination of damper and eyebolt length need to be such that one does not get into the most rearward of this travel. It is time consuming but not too difficult to plot out the front wheel spindle movement once the spring boxes have been released. Exactly how you do it will depend upon what you have lying around to make use of. Is there no one out there with a standard 'D' front end and an AVO who can tell Kerry if they are happy with this combination? [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Best Front Damper for Series 'D'
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